Rivet Master Link on Clip Chain?

[cb23]

Hi guys -

I run a race vehicle, and have determined to "risk" a 520 chain, borderline for my use. The chain I like the most, for several reasons, is the RK GB 520MXZ (supposedly less friction, more tensile strength). I will not use an O, X, or W ring chain - in my sport a fraction of a HP could kill me.

Sadly, it seems to come with a clip style master link. The masters of my class say that a riveted master link is REQUIRED.

Is there any way to put a riveted master link on this chain? The one distributer I emailed recommended a master link from an O-ring chain. . . clearly a misunderstanding.

Thanks!

 

[Jaybird]

The RK 520mxz is sold as an off-road chain only(500cc max). There are not rivet style master links available for them.
And it is not a good idea to use the master of another chain, as there could be pin size and other discrepencies. You could actually be creating the weakest link.

I'm curious what sort of class this racing machine is?
Folks race all the time using clip type master links, however you need to be conscience of the condition of the clip. It must be perfectly flat and not sprung to provide you with reliability.

There is the posibility of staking/peening the pins of the clip master to make it a permenant fitment. But I wouldn't suggest that until I knew more about what you were doing and how you were doing it.

I would also mention safety wire...but again, what are you doing?

 

[cb23]

Re: Link on Clip Chain?

Thanks Jaybird. I suppose that you are right. . . chains are so different from each other, even in the same size, I would not want a "variation."

I have a small race car, custom built for a certain type of racing, two stroke powered (2 cylinders, 500 cc). I currently run a belt drive. But to reduce belt breakage, my belt has to be over TWO inches wide. And VERY tight, to prevent ratcheting.

Going to chain drive will help me save about 20+ pounds, in a car that is, with driver, about 20 pounds overweight (I don't wanna hear about no diets!). Efficiency will increase, as the combination of wide belt, small front gear, and high tension creates a fair amount of rolling resistance.

I compete on parking lots, some of which are quite rough. My driving is all acceleration OR heavy braking OR turns, so the chain will be VERY highly stressed. A long straight is 100 feet. Max speed is 75 mph or so, usually.

BUT. My competitions will run the car about. . . 75 miles a year. And I expect to put on a new chain (and gears if need be) before the national championships every year.

Acceleration is Key, so the (possible) resistance of an O-ring or W-ring chain is bad. Chain wear will not be an issue.

So, I need to find another chain. Something strong enough to equal most 530 chains, but without rings. And the guys running chains ALL say "no clip style master links."

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

Is the "no clip style master links" an actual rule (as in printed in the rule book) or is it the advice of other racers?

Years back I used to race karts and "master links" were frowned upon. We had "chain breaker" tool that would press a pin out of any link. Shorten the chain (or add new links) then press the plate back on the pins and peen the heads over a bit.

It was a real PITA and I still have no idea why everyone avoided master links

 

[Jaybird]

cb23,
You first need to understand a couple things about ring chains...
You say that chain wear is not an issue, while refusing to use a ring chain due to the added resistance. The resistance that a improperly lubricated chain creates is far more than that of a ring chain in good condition.

Heat from friction will toast a standard chain fast if it is not lubricated properly. And when the frictional heat has worn some of the metal away, it changes the pitch of the chain, which in turn also creates a less HP situation, as the bad pitch chain expends energy trying to get around the sprockets.
In high performance situations, this could even promote chain breakage.

And wanting to use a chain with =/>530 specs...
The main advantage of the 530 over the 520 is the ability to run on a slightly wider sprocket. Unless you go with a special 530, like the RK530DR, you will see no benefit. In fact most 530 chains provide a slightly lower tensile and fatigue strength than a comparable 520 chain.
Even with an elevated tensile and fatique strength, it will more than likely not benefit your application at all. The 520 is plenty of chain to take care of your run. In fact, if the demands of the run were too much for the 520, they would most assueredly be too much for the 530...but running the 530 you add unwarranted extra rotating mass.

I would suggest replacing the sturgis belt with a 520 set-up.
I would aslo suggest you using a standard chain, and keep it lubricated properly. Trail wax is not going to cut it with this application.

As far as brands go...
I am currently working with a land speed team. They are running a 700+HP streamliner with a chain drive. After many, many tries at different brands and types of chains, they have found that the RK line are the only chains that are holding up to the rigors of such an application.
Btw...this is the fastest 4 cylinder vehicle on the face of the planet currently.
They will be at Bonniville this upcoming week trying to hold on to that title.

At over 300 MPH, a roller chain takes a hell of a beating. In fact, these guys have only been getting a ring chain to last for 2 five mile runs on the salt.
After that, the ring chain is a blue plated, worn out, piece of junk that has the rings melted and the lube thrown out of the links.
Hopefully their new lubricant sponsor will have provided them with the proper products to allow them to not be in such danger, as they had been before with a chain that is ready to snap at any given moment.
They are staking their chain with a rivet type master. But when they take the chain off, it is to throw it in the scrap heap.

I would personally want to be able to remove and service my chain if I were using it like you are. But, I would probably safety wire the master link, and forgo the possibility of a clip failure.

FWIW...I have NEVER lost a clip from a clip master link.

 

[cb23]

Thanks again for the info, Jaybird. I believe that I do understand the lubrication/cleanliness issue, and had planned on using a dry lubricant. It is very comforting to hear your confidence in the 520 size chain.

And Olderthandirt - No, it's not a rule. And I expect it WILL be a (n occasional) PITA, and require $100 in tools to do. But the primary current fabricator of these style vehicles says "Never run a clip style master link, don't ask me how I know!" And one of the regular top finishers said "Ditto on that advice, for the same reason." A couple others opined the same way (small community). So. It is quite possible that they had installed the clips wrong (though not backwards - these are detail kind of guys). And my research says that (at least one of?) the chain manufacturers say "never re-use a clip," which might solve the issue, if I had a bag of the clips. . .

In any case, the chain will come off the car, still linked, in less than 10 minutes (remove bolt on jackshaft that turns the front gear, a few grunts to move the (spline ended) jackshaft in an inch, front gear falls off, and chain is loose). Should fit over rear tire, too! (and if not, another 2 minutes to take that off)