rikhek

Member
Nov 3, 2004
67
0
Went to replace the fork seals on my daughters RT180 this afternoon. Thought it would be an hour job but it's eating me up.

I cannot get the fork caps off!!! After pulling the wheel I attempted to get the caps off with the legs still in the tree for support. It's a 91 model with a 19mm allen head in the cap. Yes it's that big! Not having a 19mm allen I used a 3/8" bolt turned upside down with a couple nuts threaded on to "get on' the caps. Perfect homemade tool with a perfect fit.

I torqued up on those suckers for all I was worth. Loosened the upper pinch bolts on the tree thinking maybe they were "pinching" the caps tight. Not likely but what the heck. Tried with a cheater bar and still no luck. I stopped before I broke something. Iamb 6' and 215 lbs. so trust me lack of torque was NOT a factor.

Been riding and wrenching for 31 years and have done lots of seals but I'm stumped. Does anybody have a service manual or advice? Surely the cap is not a left hand thread!?!?

Granted it's been more than several years since I've done seals but my plan of action was:

1. Remove wheel and caliper.
2. Remove fork caps.
3. Remove forks from triple tree, remove spring and drain.
4. Remove damping rod bolt at bottom of forks.
5. Pull forks apart as a slide hammer to disassemble.

Problem is I can't get past Step 2!!! Driving me nuts. If someone has a service manual laying around or practical experience please advise.

I'm having such a hard time with the caps I'm now worried if the damping rod bolt is going to also give me trouble.

I should mention, the bike is like new, still on original OEM tires. The caps are not rusted on or gunked up due to exposure to the elements, etc.

Thanks in advance.

Rick
 

reelrazor

Member
Jun 22, 2004
340
0
Sooo, how'd you do it?

Unless I am planning on changing the slider bushings I modify your step 3 to "remove forks from tree, remove spring, DON'T drain, replace caps"

then, step 4
Remove the c-clip that retains the seal.

5. Compress fork. The hydraulic pressure of the fork oil pushes the seal out of the lower leg

6 replace seal etc etc etc
 

rikhek

Member
Nov 3, 2004
67
0
I finally got the caps off with a powerful 1/2" impact wrench. Never thought they'd come off, I guess being on there 13 years made them comfortable.

I had almost as much trouble getting the allen head bolts which hold the damper tubes in off. Used a LARGE, 2' long screwdrive to keep the dampers from spinning and hammered away with the impact wrench.

Piece of cake from there. Puleed the sliders and damper tubes out, used a seal puller to remove the dust cover. Then removed the c-clip and seals again with the seal puller. Cleaned them up, installed new seals and reassembled.

I think using the seal puller is "neater" then using pressure to "blast the seals out"?

Also, using your method how would you get he dust seals which are above the c-clip off without buggering them up. Only way I saw to do this was to pull the sliders which made them readily accessible.

Having seen ALL the components I'm not sure what the slider bushings you refer to are or look like. Are they metal and on the dampers?

At any rate, the only issue I had was with the caps and alllen bolts holding the dampers in which seemed to be semi welded in since they were never taken apart in 13 years.

Rick
 

reelrazor

Member
Jun 22, 2004
340
0
It isn't really "blasting them out". The fluid does come with them, but one shop rag around the fork leg is all that is needed. With the spring out and cap back on I just put the bottom end of the fork on the floor and push. It doesn't gush or anything, just a slow compression and the seal comes up just as slow.

I usually replace the dust seal/cap anyway, so I don't mind dooky-ing them up if I have to to get to the c-clip.

The slider bushings are a press fit in the lower fork leg. They are thin radially and fairly tall. They are what keep the fork tubes from wearing out the legs. They are usually some cast metal with a teflon coating. Some forks have two sets, one right below the seal and one lower down. If the seals have been bad for any length of time, you can count on wear in the bushings.
 


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