SEALS and CLeaning 01 cr showas -HELP

[MX823]

Could someone clarify these instructions.......I am familar with KYB, but not showa these were taken from MX-tech 2312 instuctions cr 250 -01 .

this means? and what is the slot tool?

Using a slot tool, remove the clicker bolt from the rod end.
-Using care remove the slot tool from rod end and let the rod return against spring tension


as well as this....
Place and align the fork cylinder in the tube.
-Using the slot tool feed the rod throw the end of the fork using your finger, and then capture the end with the slot.
-Place the indexed d-rod in the rod.
-Place the 21mm bolt on the end of the rod and tighten down till it bottoms out. Then tighten the jam nut down. Torque sufficiently.
-Grease the threads before removing the slot tool. Carefully remove the slot tool and start the threads by hand.



What I am doing is fork seals for a friend, I have done them in Kayabas, but the showas seem more technical


I have not taken them apart so maybe it is just a visual thing....

 

[JTT]

First, the "slot tool" is a simple little holder that you can make up. The specs are in the Honda manual, but basically, it is a little "U" shaped piece of metal that holds the shaft clear of the bottom of the fork, so that the "clicker" assembly (on the bottom of the fork) can be removed. Basically, when you loosen the large nut on the bottom of the fork (the actual clicker unit), you will notice that it doesn't "just fall out". If you compress the fork, this assembly will protrude out the bottom of the fork, attached to the shaft. This is where the tool comes in...you slip it over the shaft and it acts as a holder to keep the end of the rod exposed, so that you can loosen the lock nut holding the clicker assembly on the rod.

The indexed "D" rod is simply the rebound adjuster shaft. It is a small aluminum tube (actually D shaped tube). When installing it, drop it into place and rotate slightly, and you will feel it "index" into the adjuster at the other end of the rod.

The 21 mm bolt is actually the "clicker assembly" we mentioned above. Simply thread it on as far as you can by hand, then tighten the lock nut up to it.

Greasing the thread will help the aluminum threads from galling. Be gentle when settling the assembly back into place after removing the "holder", as it isunder spring tension and can jam itself.

This will become much clearer when you see them apart. Although it sounds complicated, it is really a nice system and easy to work on.

Hope this makes things clearer.

 

[MX823]

Thanks JTT,
I am doing this for a friend....I do my own forks on my Yamaha but this will be a first on the showas.......they are slightly different and I don't want to srew his up.....I am sure they are no more difficult from Kayaba.

But it is probably like the fit time doing my own forks it made sense as I got into it.........

and thanks Jer, for the instructions

 

[MX823]

Well 2 days ago , the seals were changed in the showas, Jtt thanks you explained alot, it made sense when I actually got to see the manual for the cr 250 01, I improvised the slot tool for a cresant wrench, I had the cap wrench and the seal driver, the only thing I wanted to change was the innner cartridge fluid too, but my friend did not have a large enough socket , so I knew that and did not drain that part.......

Though the design was simple I prefer working on Kaybas still..........

Thanks again to jer for the instructions and thanks to jtt for clarifying