Specialty Tools - Canadian Dave's Just KDX

Okiewan

Admin
Dec 31, 1969
29,531
2,215
Texas
If you have ever tried to work on your bike, then you know how important it is to have the proper tools. The Kawasaki factory service manual makes reference to several "specialty" tools. This page was set up for readers to share ideas and pictures of some of the things that have worked for them in the past. If you have made or use something to help you with working on your KDX or any dirtbike send them to JustKDX and we will post them for everyone to use.

Kayaba Fork Tool
If you are breaking down the forks on your 1995 -2001 KDX200/220 to change seals or a valve this baby will come in real handy.

Flywheel Holder for KDX
Crude but effective

Fork Oil Gauge
Handy easy to build and use gauge for setting fork oil level

Pipe Cleaner:
Clean that carbon out of your exhaust with this handy tool.
 

Okiewan

Admin
Dec 31, 1969
29,531
2,215
Texas
Flywheel Holder for KDX

Flywheel Holder

Mikeb

Email: kdxwebmaster@dirtrider.net

I dont know who coined the phrase "necessity is the mother of all inventions" but that could not have rung more true approx 2 years ago for me. I had stripped the shifter shaft and fried my clutch trying to ride out of the Mississippi woods in 5th gear. The fix was not too bad but getting the clutch basket off proved to be a job in itself . In 30 minutes with things found in the workshop I had made a flywheel holder that not only got me through that job but has been used for 2 years now.

Parts needed:

A) 18 inch long OAK 1X2
B) 2 - 5/16 inch diameter by 2 1/2 inch long metal roll pins
C) Drill

Drill 2 1/4 inch holes 2 3/4 inches apart about 2 inches from one end of the 1X2 and using a hammer drive the 2 roll pins in until flush with one side. THATS IT.

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To use this place roll pins in the 2 holes in the flywheel and depending if you are tightening or loosening the flywheel place the long end of the holder on top or below the footpeg.WARNING DO NOT INSERT THIS TOOL MORE THAN 3/8ths OF AN INCH OR YOU CAN DAMGE THE DELICATE IGNITION COILS. (Thanks to Steven Hubbs for the heads up on this )

This will hold the flwheel in place while loosenig or tightening the nut that holds the clutch basket on.

Another Flywheel holder option

Sent in by Steven Hubbs

An automtive oil filter wrench makes a decent flywheel holder. Makes for a two person job but will work in a pinch.

Trailside Flywheel Holder

By Paul Carlson

email - paul.carlson@nwa.com

The following actually came in from a reader who heard it form Jeff Fredette himself. Jeff Carlson sent the following:

Press kickstarter down slowly until the piston is at bottom of stroke then up unitl just before top dead center. The idea is to make sure the piston is not on the downstroke or the ports are exposed because the rope can enter a port and shatter a piston. Take a several foot long piece of clean 3/8 or so nylon rope fre of knots and feed it into the spark plug hole until you have quite a bit of rope in the cylinder laying on top of the cylinder. This rope only compress so far before the piston will travel upwards no more. This will hold the flywheel in place while removing the flywheel bolt.
 

Okiewan

Admin
Dec 31, 1969
29,531
2,215
Texas
Fork Oil Gauge

Building a Fork Oil Level Gauge

By Canadian Dave

If you’ve ever purchased even the most basic motorcycle specific tool you know three things. One that the proper tool is indispensable, two they’re expensive and three you don’t always get what you paid for. Here is an inexpensive fork oil level gauge you can build yourself, its indispensable and it works great.

Getting started- here’s a fairly basic list of materials you’ll need to get together. I’ve included the ideal part and then a replacement if required. Some of these parts are semi specialized so you’re not going to be able to pick them up at the corner hardware store. I’ve included suggestions where you should be able to find them. The replacements you should be able to pick up at a hardware or automotive parts store.

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50cc or larger syringe. You can pick one up at the local farm supply store.

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2 feet of semi rigid ¼ inch plastic tubing. You can pick it up at the farm supply store or any hardware store.

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One foot of bendable (annealed) ¼ inch stainless steal tubing. Any other bendable steal tubing like a length of automotive break line will work too. Grab the Yellow Pages and look under instrumentation or metal for the stainless.

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1/4 inch tubing union (See picture below)or a 3 inch length of clear ¼ inch gas line.

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A 2.5 inch square piece of Plexiglas greater than 3/8 of an inch thick. Look in the Yellow Pages under plastic. You could substitute it with aluminum or oak.

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A ¼ inch by 2 inch long ( or something close ) course threaded bolt and washer plus a matching tap and the appropriate drill bit. A socket head cap screw works really nicely.

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A hack saw with a fine tooth blade

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¼ drill bit.


Putting it together. Assembling the gauge is fairly easy. If you look at the picture you can pretty much see where everything goes. Gather your parts and follow along.

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Optional - Bend a 90 degree angle in the steal tubing about 3 inches from the end. If you don’t have access to a tube bender you can make a decent bend by wrapping it around a piece of 2 to 2.5 inch steal pipe.

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Using the union attach the steal tubing to the semi rigid plastic tubing. If you have substituted the union for a length of gas line force the steal tubing half way into the clear ¼ inch gas line and force the semi rigid plastic tubing into the other end of the gas line. If it’s difficult then heat the gas line with a hair dryer to make it more flexible and lube it with some oil.

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Insert the free end of the semi rigid plastic tubing over the end of the syringe.

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Drill a ¼ inch hole through the middle of the Plexiglas.

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Using the hack saw cut from the center of one side of the Plexiglas into the ¼ inch hole.

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Drill and tap a hole ½ inch from the edge of the Plexiglas through the cut about 2 ¼ inches deep.

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Thread in the bolt / washer.

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Slide the free end of the steal tubing through the Plexiglas and slide it about ¾ of the way up.

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Hay that’s it, you’re done.

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Using your new gauge. At this point I’m going to assume you have completely serviced and bled the forks as out lined in the factory service manual.

Using a tape measure or ruler slide the Plexiglas block to the desired fork oil level. A standard 1995 to 2000 KDX setting is 100mm form the top of the fork with the forks completely bottomed, the cap off and the springs removed. In this case the bottom of the block should be set at 100mm from the bottom of the steal tube and the nut tightened to lock it in place.

Fill the forks so the oil level is over 100mm from the top. Insert the fork oil level gage as close to center as you can (the piston rod might be in the way). Draw the excess oil out of the fork using the syringe. Your fork oil will now be set at 100mm form the top.

If you have any questions please feel free to post them on the JustKDX Forum. If you have any comments please feel free to email me at cdave@dirtrider.net

Happy KDX’n,

David

 
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