i have a 1996 rm 250 and it needs the rear rim relaced. i took it to my local suzuki dealer and they quoted me a price of 200$ for spokes labor and tax. i decided that i would try to do it myself before i pay that much to have it done, and i was wondering how hard it is to do. iam planing to buy a spoke wrench and i was wondering if there is any other tools i need .
spokes
- Thread starter fishy7509
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Fishy, I just built new wheels this evening. It was cake. You just have to study the pattern.. take a digital picture is good. You will have inner spokes and outer spokes. Lace one side of the inner ones then the inner on the other side. Only attache the nipples a few threads. Then lace the outer ones one side then the other side. On mine I then tightened all the nipples so that the threads on the spokes were just to its visual end. 4 more turns and they were snug and I could true them. Use antiseize...
- Thread starter
- #3
how tight should i make the spokes and you said to use antiseize iam assuming that i should use them on the nipples (the nut) . also i have a question about truing ive seen the stands in magizines should i buy one of them or is there an other way of doing it. Ive never trued a wheel before should i try it my self of just let the local shop do it.
fishy7509 said:
You can make a homeade stand easily enough (you can searh for ideas on the net). I made mine by cutting a V into the top of 2 1X1s, then I nailed both the 1X1's to the side of my workbench so I could set the axle in the V. Get them close to level, but they don't have to be perfect.
Space them so the rim will fit I used seom pcv cut to size as spacers to keep the rim from moving sideways, though if you're careful, this isn't really necessary.
The other thing you need is a pointer to identify where the rim is out of true. You can use a pencil attached to either leg of the stand (you can tie it on with twine, use tape, whatever works. I used a dial inidicator that I I put on a heavy metal base on just set on the bench.
Get the hop ou first (out of round), then work on the side to side stuff. There are instructions for this on the net. If you need me to, I can post some basics, but I think a search on "wheel truing" will get better results.
Mag
I used my brothers bicycle stand. It really isnt hard. Took me 2 hours. Just go slow. If you cannot get it right you can then loosen it up and get it done. I would recomend a bicycle shop.. They do it all the time these are just bigger.
Anyone know how tight.. ? Funny thing is that I cannot mount the dam tires. Never did ones with tubes.. Kicking my ass. Going to a shop.
Anyone know how tight.. ? Funny thing is that I cannot mount the dam tires. Never did ones with tubes.. Kicking my ass. Going to a shop.
usgpru27 said:
Tires take practice. I do my own so that I can do it on the trail if needed. I've done two tires on the trail, I it's nice to be able to do them farily quickly.
Some tips:
I use a Bead Buddy at home to hold the bead in the center well of the rim. This is necessary to give enough play to get the entire bead over the rim. On the trail, I use a socket to hold part of the bead in the well.
At home I put talking powder on the tube to avoid pinching the tube. Also, soap on the bead helps it get over the rim easier, but isn't entirely necessary. I use water for the bead on the trail and am just careful about pinching the tube.
Use good tire irons (3 makes it easier...2 on the trail) and don't use them for anything else. Damaged ends of a tire iron can grip a tube and pinch or tear it easier. I also use a bucket at home to set the wheel on.
You should practive doing this (and carry a tube and tools) if you ride far from your truck. Riding on a rim is tough on it, and walking a few miles pushing your bike also sucks.
-Mag
KnightrRider
Member
- Jun 30, 2005
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anybody have a links on how the pattern goes?
