Springs for my 99 220

[D_Moen]

Hi All,

After getting the jetting sorted on my new-to-me 220, I've decided to keep 'er. The forks are way to soft for my 210 pound (with gear) frame though.

Fredette's web site reccomends a .40 or .42 spring for a guy my size. The MX-Tech site reccomends a .44

I am an "intermediate" rider and most of the stuff I ride is pretty tight, lots of rocks, roots and billy-goat trails.

I am thinking I'll take the middle option, the .42 - anyone have any feedback on that choice?

Also, I'm a reasonable tinkerer, is it difficult to change the springs? Should I be changing fork oil while I'm at it?

Thanks for your time and expertise!

 

[crhines]

I also have a 99' 220 - intermediate trail rider - no track. For what it's worth, I weigh about 200 with gear - I went from the stock springs to the .40 from Fredette and they were too stiff for the rocks and roots. Jeff was kind enough to exchange them for the .38's - all is well.

 

[D_Moen]

Thanks, good to know. From the reading I've done here, it seems like the KDX is pretty much off the radar for the aftermarket folks, I could order .38s from the local Kawi dealer as I think the factory optional springs were .38s.

 

[glad2ride]

crhines, how much preload did you use?

Changing fork springs is not the most difficult task out there. If you do it, be sure to try to drain as much of the old oil out as possible, then put in some fresh oil.

 

[crhines]

I went with Fredette's recommendation - about the same space as the factory space with 7.5 weight oil at recommended heighth - can't remember all the details, it's been a while.

 

[Makeshoes]

I just recently changed mine. I'm 230, and only a woods guy, I went with .42's (from Fredette), and I am very happy. Yes, pretty straight forward to change, might want to read the manual and do a little searching for suggustions. I didn't need any "special tools". You will know what will work when you see it. Yes, change fork oil with new. I "pumped" out my old forks 10-12 times and left them to sit upside down overnight to get any additional left over. When I replaced my fluid, I was able to put in nearly what its called for when they are empty. Yes, 7.5wt and approx 95mm (3.75"). Good Luck!

 

[chabat]

What spring does the KDX come with stock?

 

[glad2ride]

1995 - 2006 KDX fork spring rate is .35. Shock is 5.0.

 

[D_Moen]

I received my springs today, and as I have no idea what is sloshing around in the forks, I want to freshen up the fork oil. Is there anyway of draining the oil other than removing them from the bike and turning them upside down? If I take the forks right off, I'm not sure that they will get put back on correctly!

 

[mideastrider]

It's not a big deal to take them off and put them back just keep them even in the clamps.You can also mark the tube's so you get them back like they came off. Don't over tighten the clamps. Oh yeah loosen the fork caps before loosening the clamps. I have 42's in my kdx they work well. I first tried the 7.5wt oil but I didn't like the way they felt I changed back 5wt.

 

[blackduc98]

Oh yeah loosen the fork caps before loosening the clamps.

Err, let's be a bit more accurate here. To avoid ruining the threads of your fork caps DO loosen the TOP clamp first. Then loosen the fork caps. Then finally loosen the bottom clamp.

Tightening sequence is precisely the reverse. I hope it is obvious that you will not be able to torque the fork caps to the proper value if you tighten the top triple clamp first.

BTW, the subject of fork springs, fork disassembly, shim stack mod, etc. has been discussed ad nauseum on this forum. Just do a search.

D_moen: you need to remove the forks to drain the oil. Putting them back into the clamps is easy, assuming your front end is not bent out of shape to begin with. I am assuming you have a manual with all torque settings 'cuz overtightening the triple clamps will pinch the fork tube and make fork action sticky.

After changing springs you may find that the fork is still not very compliant on rocks and roots, thus you may want to do the shim stack mod. Search this forum for details. It is, however, more mechanically involved than just changing springs.

 

[D_Moen]

Did the search, it sounds like modding the shim stack should be done! Most of my riding is in billy goat country that is infested with roots and rocks. It sounds like this mod is easier to do with the fork springs in and so should be done before or after the spring replacement is complete - is that right?

 

[blackduc98]

When I did the shim stack mod, I disassembled the fork completely. I don't know if it is even possible to do it without taking the springs out.