CROSS

Member
Sep 25, 2008
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Steering Issue *Pics*

Well, after a while off the bike, I decided to hop back on today. The rear tire was worn so I replaced it and reinstalled the rear wheel. Everything went fairly smoothly, retainer clip on the chain was annoying to get back on, but all was good.

I went to take her off the stand, and the front wheel would turn left about 2 inches, and turn right about two inches. It was stiff as could be. I shook it a little, applied more pressure, then it turned all the way like it should. Thought it was strange and continued...

I started her up, went for a slow ride around the block and noticed that the turning was horrible. It was stiff, hard to turn, and once it started turning it wanted to pull me all over the place. Got back to the driveway, put more air in the rear tire, took off the front fender in case it was hitting something, sprayed some WD-40, and went for another ride.

It did the same, but not quite as bad, although I can definitely still feel it. Has anyone else had the same problem? The bike was on its stand for only about a month, and the front wheel was never touched. All spokes are tight, front and rear.

What could be the problem?


CROSS
 
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Rich Rohrich

Moderator / BioHazard
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jul 27, 1999
22,838
16,902
Chicago
The steering head bearings are rusted. Time to do some maintenance.
 

Rich Rohrich

Moderator / BioHazard
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jul 27, 1999
22,838
16,902
Chicago
CROSS said:
- what exactly is the procedure?

Step 1 - Buy a Honda Service Manual

Step 2 - Follow procedure for removing steering head bearings and inspect them

Step 3 - Go to www.servicehonda.com and order parts as needed:
(1) DUST SEAL (bottom) - 53214-KZ4-701
(1) DUST SEAL (top) 53214-KZ3-861
(2) BEARING (top & bottom) 91015-KZ4-701

Step 4 - Follow procedure for re-installing steering head bearings and seals.
 

CROSS

Member
Sep 25, 2008
45
0
Rich Rohrich said:
Step 1 - Buy a Honda Service Manual

Step 2 - Follow procedure for removing steering head bearings and inspect them

Step 3 - Go to www.servicehonda.com and order parts as needed:
(1) DUST SEAL (bottom) - 53214-KZ4-701
(1) DUST SEAL (top) 53214-KZ3-861
(2) BEARING (top & bottom) 91015-KZ4-701

Step 4 - Follow procedure for re-installing steering head bearings and seals.

Well, first step is complete. lol. now for 2.. 3 unfortunately.. and 4.
 

CROSS

Member
Sep 25, 2008
45
0
Yeah, it says...

Remove handlebar
Remove front wheel
Remove number plate
Remove fender bolts, collars and washers
Remove front fender
Remove bolt and brake hose guide
Remove steering stem nut and washer
Remove fork legs
Remove fork top bridge

Then it finally starts with the steering stem... :bang:

Any tips on how to do it easier/faster? Do I really need a "ball race remover"? lol


CROSS
 

CROSS

Member
Sep 25, 2008
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<a href="http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d120/rossim22/?action=view&current=topbearing.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d120/rossim22/topbearing.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

That's the top bearing. The bottom rotational fitting isn't rusty like the one above, but the bearing itself will not budge. I'm going to try to take it to a mechanic and let them deal with it.

Do they have to use a hydraulic press to fit the bearings together? Is it possible without?

Thanks!


CROSS
 

2-Strokes 4-ever

~SPONSOR~
Feb 9, 2005
1,842
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Missouri
Replace the races too (what bearings ride in). All can be done with a propane torch and your fridge. When you have your new races, stick them in the freezer. Use torch to warm steering head around races and punch out old races. Make sure head remains hot and your frozen races will go in easilly (drive them in gentle and square) Pack new bearings real well with grease, and as said, follow manual to finish and for torque setting on steering stem nuts. Greasing bearings (and many more) regularly will save buying new ones and help your bike work at it's best.
 

CROSS

Member
Sep 25, 2008
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0
I'm buying the parts at http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx ... a top dust seal, bottom dust seal, and 2 sets of bearings. Totals to about $47, while the dealership was about $87 for it all. I might have to get the dealership to cut off the bottom bearing because there is no way I'm getting it off. I'm trying some rust dissolver, its a hot pink liquid, really strong, and it took off a lot of the rust on the outside but the bearing still won't budge. I broke off the rotational fitting part on the outside, now I'm down to the bearing itself.

This is what's stuck.
<a href="http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d120/rossim22/?action=view&current=bearingonstem.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d120/rossim22/bearingonstem.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
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2-Strokes 4-ever

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Feb 9, 2005
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Have your dealer press the new bearing on the stem.
 

oldguy

Always Broken
Dec 26, 1999
9,419
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2-Strokes 4-ever said:
Have your dealer press the new bearing on the stem.
Unless you bought the parts somewhere else :whoa: One of the reasons I like to buy from the local shop. sometimes I have to pay a bit more but when I ask favors like that he will do it for me
 

CROSS

Member
Sep 25, 2008
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0
oldguy said:
Unless you bought the parts somewhere else :whoa: One of the reasons I like to buy from the local shop. sometimes I have to pay a bit more but when I ask favors like that he will do it for me

Well i have to get this bearing off. and they're going to charge me $85 to do so. this local dealership is called Sun Sports, honda polaris yamaha suzuki.. and they dont give breaks. they will charge for anything they can.
 

2-Strokes 4-ever

~SPONSOR~
Feb 9, 2005
1,842
4
Missouri
I replaced my headset stuff last winter... ordered an aftermarket kit through our dealer (right about what you paid) chisseled the bearing off the stem myself and the dealer pressed it on for nothing. They tend to get a chip on their shoulder when we're not spending money at their store. That's human behavior... and to be expected. You're unhappy about $85, their unhappy about you buying elsewhere. Maybe not fair, but we shouldn't be suprised.
Last night before the debate we sprung a plumbing leak under the kitchen sink, this morning the furnace isn't working (I'm gunna miss a club ride this weekend). If I can buy the parts and fix it myself I will. If I can't, whoever I call about the furnace deserves to make a living.
I don't mean to be an a**hole, but life requires EXPECTING disapointment. When we're prepared for it, it WILL build us maturity and character in us.
Keep your bearings greased... end of rant.
Have a nice day ;)
 

2strokerfun

Member
May 19, 2006
1,500
1
2-Strokes 4-ever said:
but life requires EXPECTING disapointment.

Don't know if it is "required," but the good thing about being eternally pessimistic is that I am sometimes pleasantly suprised, but rarely disappointed!!
 

CROSS

Member
Sep 25, 2008
45
0
Well, I got the bearing off. I first tried using the dremel to cut it off. Got all most through when I decided that cutting into the stem was very likely. So, I was looking around for more tools since the propane was out on the torch... I was at school btw... and found a heat gun. I cranked it up and 5 minutes later, the outside of the bearing had a light tint of orange... pried it with a flathead, and off it went.

I ordered the aftermarket bearing/seal kit just now for $47. Now my question is... do you have to hydraulically press it down? Or can you do it yourself? Thanks!
 

XRpredator

AssClown SuperPowers
Damn Yankees
Aug 2, 2000
13,510
19
if you can fit the lower clamp and steering stem in a freezer, put it in one overnight. Then take your new bearing, put it in a pan with some warm oil and get it warm. once it warms up, it'll expand just enough to fit over the cold steering stem. Should drop right on, then let both assume room temperature, and you're good to go.
 

CROSS

Member
Sep 25, 2008
45
0
XRpredator said:
if you can fit the lower clamp and steering stem in a freezer, put it in one overnight. Then take your new bearing, put it in a pan with some warm oil and get it warm. once it warms up, it'll expand just enough to fit over the cold steering stem. Should drop right on, then let both assume room temperature, and you're good to go.

Thank you very much sir!

Well this turned from a $150+ project to a $50 maintenance job.

:cool:
 
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