Uh...no.
The term 'triple taper' is not correct. It is
used often to denote the geometry of the KTM style needle, but it is wrong.
The KTMs come with a needle that has two different tapers to it..thus they are
double tapers....NOT triple. The only way you could conceive them to be
triple tapers is if you count the actual STRAIGHT section as a taper.
That is in-line with calling the DDK a 'straight' needle. Obviously, it isn't straight 'eh? It DOES have a 1.75º or 1&3/4º taper. Oh..I wrote that as '1º45", or 'one degree, 45 second' angle before. That is not correct. Minutes come before seconds (last I checked), so it would be 1º45'. The " is for seconds, sixty of them in one
minute, sixty minutes in one degree.
Click if you care about any of that.
Whew...anyway......
An AEQ isn't going to work for you.
Read thru the thread I mentioned in the previous thread. Maybe you are unaware.... '
this thread' in the above post indicates a
link to another thread. You will find lots of information you need there. Not everything in
bold is a link...and indeed a link may not show up as anything particular unless you place the pointer over the text that indeed is a link.
Got that? ;) OK...so much for 'Forums 101'.
The 'A' needle family (1º0' taper) has been tried. Actually, there is
ONE (no link here!) kdx'er that is happy with the AEN (I think it was) that RB-modified carbs used to come with. I've never understood the why of that...cuz it
don't work for diddle, imo.
A DDK (probably clip 2) is right in-line with fishhead's notes for the KTM200.
JD has a spreadsheet that allows you to input jet info (pilot, main, needle and clip), throttle valve cut, temperature and elevation to show graphs of needle profiles and % of fuel delivery change.
It is a terrific tool for comparing different jet-sets to 'see' what will happen.
If you're interested, let me know.....I'll verify and send you the web address that offers it for sale. It's changed a few times...I don't want to list an old/bad addy and don't want to take the time verifying it if you aren't interested.
One last edit...
You mention 'frustrating' regarding Keihin-Kawi needle translation. I take that to mean you have
not been to CDave's site? Listed on the top of this forum is a thread, 'Every kdx rider should read...' that has a link to CDave's Justkdx site. On his site he has a 'needle decoder' section that makes translation a snap.
Pictures and everything! Heck..even
I understand it!
Something to keep in mind that (imo) is critical to understanding needles. The 'L1' or 'straight' section
is not straight! By definition, L1 is the length of needle from the blunt/clip end (well, the top of the clip-1 slot) to the place on the needle where the diameter is 2.515mm. That is often called the 'magic number.'
YeeHAw! It's
magic!
Where this is critical is when you understand that the
steeper the angle of taper the
later (farther down) that taper
starts! Conversely the slower the angle, the
earlier (farther up) it starts.
Aha! Lots of bottom-end response issues with a too-early occurring taper from an 'A' needle, 'eh?
Try the AEQ for sure. You will end up with a plug loading, 4-stroking goober (imo again)..but as long as you have it in hand you might as well get a feel for what works....or not.
Oh...an R1174K translates to a
BFQ and a BEL translates to an
R1170J
.....if
my figuring is correct. Check yourself to be sure.
Cheers!