sudco needles

[MotoEnduro]

I just received two needles from Sudco to try in my '01 250 EXC. I haven't put them in yet, because when I compare them to the stock NOZ needles, the new ones are SIGNIFICANTLY fatter from top to bottom. They should be roughly the same size except for the taper, right?
I told the guy PWK 38, and I got these two sent to me:
48-DCK PJ J/N
48-CEK PJ J/N

If anyone else has these, did you notice the same thing? Thanks

 

[DanS]

The needles you got are straight taper. Make sure you bump the main jet up at least 1 preferably 2 sizes since they are a little leaner at full throttle. The DCK will provide more "hit" and the CEK will be much smoother.

 

[MotoEnduro]

Thanks for the info Dan. I'll make sure I put in a larger main, I'll start with 178.

I'm just a little concerned if they sent the right part #s for my carb, and not a larger one.

 

[Barbarian]

Dan,
What needle do you recomend to make an 02 ktm 200exc as smooth as possible without so much 'hit'?

 

[agitt73]

cek gets rid of the hit if i remember corectly

 

[Strick]

Both of the needles are correct replacements for your carb.

Dan S has experimented with many and offers good advice.

Good LucK, and let us know how you like each.

 

[LoriKTM]

After doing a lot of searching here and at other forums, I ordered the DDK and CEK needles for my 200. The DDK didn't come in, but I tried out the CEK. I also noticed that the CEK was noticeably "fatter" in diameter than the stock needle. It was also a golden color, compared to the silver color of the other needles. I figured that with so many people running that needle successfully, I'd try it out on blind faith. When I first ran it, it seemed to rev out real high, but settled back down later. :eek:
It was only after this happened the next time I rode that I realized the screw-adjustment at the carb had backed all the way out, pulling the throttle cable up and causing the bike to rev higher! Once that was set back properly, the bike ran just fine. :o And here I was ready to blame the needle...

Anyway, I like the way my bike runs with the CEK needle. Softens up the low-end hit for those tight, rocky sections. Also seems to have reduced some of the top-end vibration, which is a good thing. Dave rode it around and said it was better, but still not as buttery-smooth as his 250. Said the 200 hit too hard for him! ;) I must admit that his 250 is nice, I could probably get used to riding that one...!

 

[DanS]

One big thing to remember is that no two bikes are alike and everyone has a different riding style. With that in mind I can only offer sugestions for a starting point and then a direction to go after that if you're looking for something different. The CEK needle is not the cure all. It's a good refference that a lot of people like and are familar with that's why you see it talked about all the time. It provides a very linear power curve to most bikes. However it can tend to be a little lean on top for smaller bikes like the 200 or for more agressive riders on bigger bikes. The nice thing is you can just drop in a different needle based on where you want a change. More hit mid to top try a D series like a DCK. They are a little leaner down low and fatter on top due to the profile thats why you use one that's a couple clips fatter so the low end stays the same. You can usually drop your main by 1 compared to the C series too but only if it's too fat at WOT. I have to admit that using James Deans spreadsheet is what really taught me about how everything works together and what changes will affect the different aspects of jetting.

 

[MotoEnduro]

Lori, thats just what I was looking for, someone else who got a fat, gold needle and wondered what??? Since you bravely tried yours out already I will do the same (without the idle screw 'adjustment' ;) ).
I also got a Yam. N3EJ to try out. I had ordered the DDK from sudco, but it was backordered. From the jetting chart it looked like the dck is only a half clip richer from the ddk, same profile.
Thanks Dan for explaining the different needles.