suggested use of funds

[douglasnorth]

just got me first bike 2001 RM 250 about a month ago or so and I currently have 300 dollars to spend. some things....The guy I bought it from said the top end has never been rebuilt (I have no tools or space so how expensive is this normally to have it done by someone at a shop?), the pro circuit pipe on it has some legitamate dents on the left side of the bike (not the big side if this makes sense)(also wondering would this effect performance?), also heard that reeds make a difference, porting makes a difference I heard as well, or simply a tune-up (which would include??). I only do trail riding. Thanks for a reply I realize this might be the dumbest post in some time

 

[berlinetta]

I would have to say spend some money tuning it up. Repack your silencer ($11 for material) change all the fluids, inspect the sprockets and chain (I changed mine right after purchase just for peice of mind) check and lub all bearings, re-jet the carb if needed, clean or upgrade the reeds, new grips and levers if needed, I'm sure others will add different things. I was going to have a shop rebuild my top end until I found out how easy it is. I think I was quoted $350 including parts, I saved $250 doing it myself (not done yet, but I have the parts). Hope this helps

 

[BSWIFT]

First, I would spend the money for a good shop manual and basic tools. Read the "jetting thread" and analyze how the bike performs. If the top end has not been replaced, get the compression checked to see if you are within specs. These basic things will leave money in your pocket when it is done and you will have a better understanding and appreciation for your machine.
After that, save more money and get your suspension done. You will really appreciate a professional suspension shop after you have it done.

 

[Xtremesports445]

Like the posts above me have already said, definitely get that sucker jetted before anything else. But before that, make sure your top end is good, your reeds are good, and your float is set correctly. any of those things will mess up your jetting. I'd also replace any small, worn down parts, such as sprockets, grips, levers, whatever you think it could use. After all that is done, set up your suspension by atleast dialing in your clickers or you could get it professionally done. after that, if u still have money, is when you can start buying some performance parts (pipe, reeds, tires, etc.)

 

[pyrofreak]

Yeah, definitly get all the basic maintence completed, and keep a record of it for future reference. Knowing what you did and when is a big help! Get the ergonomics of the bike to fit you, meaning suspension, levers, bars, seat, etc. I'd rather spend money on things that are proven to help with the longevity of the bike and myself, than on performance parts that can be hit or miss. You don't need to add more power, until you make sure you have the bike dialed in to your preferences, and are using the power it already has to your advantage by a setup that works for you. A little maintence and set-up can go a long way!!

A Good List
-Suspension
-Jetting
-Top End, even just a check
-Replace All Fluids, fork, motor, radiator, etc.
-Check All Bolts, Nuts, Spokes, etc..

Check and Replace if Needed
-Chain 'n Sprockets
-Reeds
-Bearings
-Air Filter
-Grips
-Levers
-Pedals
-Brakes, etc......

Just go through your bike paying crucial attention to detail, make sure everything is nice and tight, or lubed up good. Check your oils and fluids and change them. You're starting fresh with the bike, so the bike should be fresh also. KNOW the last time maintence was done, DONT just guess at it. Get to know your bike, get it set up for you. Theres no use buying performance parts, unless a part is in need of replacing, until you can use most of the power that's on tap. I would buy protection for my bike before I would buy performance. A good pipe bash gaurd would cover those dings up and cost a lot less than a new pipe, plus make it look good too. After you get it all covered up, if you must do some sort of mod, I would call up Eric Gorr, and have him port your motor. Porting is a deciding factor in when your power kicks in, and how it kicks in.

 

[76GMC1500]

If you are uncomfortable opening up your enigne, you can remove the engine from the frame or strip the frame down so the cylinder is easily accessable to save yourself some dough. Once the cylinder is exposed, it shouldn't take a dealer more than an hour's labor to replace the piston and rings. Figure $190 at current labor and parts rates. Now you have $210 for other projects. I would hold on to this money for routine maintenance like handle bars, chains, sprockets, clutches, TIRES, oil, etc... You wont believe how fast a 250 goes through tires. I get about 5-6 rides out of a nearly new tire.

 

[2strokerfun]

I was going to have a shop rebuild my top end until I found out how easy it is. I think I was quoted $350 including parts, I saved $250 doing it myself (not done yet, but I have the parts). Hope this helps

I want the name of the place where you bought your parts!!!
I usually spend about $150 for gaskets, piston kit and pin bearing. (although sometimes I don't replace the bearing).

 

[RM_guy]

All of the maintenance and jetting stuff is good but if you are looking for performance improvements I would at a minimum have Erric Gore port the cylinder with the Mo Power Everywhere and have MX Tech revalve the forks. Off all of the things I’ve had done, those are the 2 that made the biggest difference.

Doing both might be a little over $300 but it’s worth it. The stock forks have some mid stroke harshness that drove me crazy, now they are nice and plush. The early 2001 engines had no over rev and the porting woke that up as well as adding tons of low end and smoothing out the midrange transition.

 

[FruDaddy]

Your first bike is an RM250? Take care of the top end, tune it up, and spend whatever is left on safety gear. Learn to ride it before trying to make it stronger, I am sure it has more than you are using.

 

[robwbright]

What they said. . .

If the pipe is really bad and you're concerned about it, try this link:

http://www.piperepair.com/

Or try e.b.a.y for a replacement.

 

[76GMC1500]

I fix my own pipes using an air compressor and acetylene torch. My pipe wears some piep armor, but this does nothing to prevent dents. It does prevent creases which are hard to pop out, but dents are easy to pop out.

 

[rebith75]

Thanks for all the replys, a very noob question on jetting (before anyone gets anoyed I have done a search on this forum and read my manual for the bike, clymers)

When people say "get that sucker jetted" what exactly does that mean, in the clymers it lists stock numbers (which I think pertains to the "size" of the screw in the carb and im sure those are the same

So do I just check how much they are turned? do I screw in all the way then come out with it till when I should stop?Is that all there is to it? do I need to take off the carb? When I am messing with them when do I know it is the optimal setting (for all the jets)? It would be fine also to point me to the forum that already goes over this, i couldnt find one, my bike is a RM 250 01'

 

[FruDaddy]

The specs in the manual are just a baseline, and a good place to start.When turning in the screws, turn them in until they are seated, to much torque will damage them. The numbers refer to the number of turns from seated if the circuit has an adjustment screw. Also, there is a primary jet, a needle, and a main jet. The Clymer manual should have and explanation of what each circuit does. Basically, each steps higher into the throttle opening, and they overlap. The order is screw, primary, needle, main. Oh, and the needle also has an e-clip that can be moved on the needle to adjust the midrange mixture.

When people speak of jetting a bike, they mean to get the jetting set for the conditions where you ride. After you get the baseline, you fine tune the carb for optimum performance.

There are a couple of good jetting guides on here, and I believe Rich has them all memorized. I used to refer people to "Spanky's Jetting Guide", but got yelled at due to several issues that I won't go into now.

 

[rebith75]

"you fine tune the carb for optimum performance"

I understand what each does etc, just dont know how to mess with them in order to get the best performance, do I let it idle and mess with them until.... or do I mess with them then ride it? thanks agin

 

[FruDaddy]

You can adjust the screw with the engine running, The rest requires partial disassembly. The jets and needle often require changing, and the needle may need to be removed to move the clip.

 

[rebith75]

not to be annoying, but in this posting several people told me to get the thing jetted...are they telling me to replace all the needles and jets with new ones? or are they saying to adjust them? if they are saying to adjust them how am I to know if the adjusting is going toward better or worse than before (richen or lean up the mixture, what do I listen for to make the bike run better) thanks again

 

[FruDaddy]

This is where the guides come in. I cannot tell you for sure whether or not you will have to change anything. Often stock is relatively close. Tuning the screw, leaning the main and miving the clip may be all that are required. It could also be good enough stock. You first adjustment should be to make it stock. There are numbers stamped on the jets so you will wknow whats in there. The needle is probably stock.

How well does it run? As a beginner, you don't need to be as concerned with perfect jetting. As you get faster, then it becomes a bigger issue. I think that you are overwhelming yourself worrying about it, and should relax and learn to ride the bike.

Where are you located? There might be somebody here that is near you and can offer you a hand.

 

[RM_guy]

Here are a couple of real good guides to how to jet.
http://ericgorr.com/techarticles/carbtuning.html

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/carbtuning.html

I could give you my jetting but I have V force reeds, porting, a cut slide, etc so it wouldn't help. Follow the guides and you'll be in good shape.