Ti 18x1.5 sensor bung
- Thread starter ochster
- Start date
Mark - I'll check with SFO. He and I talked about this in the past.
SFO
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Feb 16, 2001
- 2,001
- 1
Mark, I think I have some material kicking around if you want to make one yourself.
OTW, I might try a local machine shop with ti experience.
Or, try stick-em up ti parts( or any other mc related ti fastener supplier) and see if they have an off the shelf ti bung.
If you want a brief walk through on drilling, tapping, and welding Ti I would be happy to share my experiences.
I might shy away from running a ti plug in the ti bung as the ti on ti seizure will leave you in a tied (sic) up state.
Even with never seize you will be pushing the envelope in a exhaust sensor application with the ti on ti.
OTW, I might try a local machine shop with ti experience.
Or, try stick-em up ti parts( or any other mc related ti fastener supplier) and see if they have an off the shelf ti bung.
If you want a brief walk through on drilling, tapping, and welding Ti I would be happy to share my experiences.
I might shy away from running a ti plug in the ti bung as the ti on ti seizure will leave you in a tied (sic) up state.
Even with never seize you will be pushing the envelope in a exhaust sensor application with the ti on ti.
Bill - Is it possible to weld a 321 or 304 SS bung to the Ti pipe?
Ol'89r
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 27, 2000
- 6,961
- 45
Mark.
I agree with Bill. Machine one yourself. I have a piece of ti stock if you want it, PM your address to me.
When you tig it on, set your post gas adjustment to leave a trailer of argon until all of the color (red) is gone from the weld. If you remove the argon shield from the weld area before it has cooled down, it will contaminate the weld area. You can also run a separate tube supplying argon to the inside of the pipe to insure a inert enviroment at the inside of the weld.
Have never tried to tig stainless to ti. Not sure how or if that would work.
I agree with Bill. Machine one yourself. I have a piece of ti stock if you want it, PM your address to me.
When you tig it on, set your post gas adjustment to leave a trailer of argon until all of the color (red) is gone from the weld. If you remove the argon shield from the weld area before it has cooled down, it will contaminate the weld area. You can also run a separate tube supplying argon to the inside of the pipe to insure a inert enviroment at the inside of the weld.
Have never tried to tig stainless to ti. Not sure how or if that would work.
Thanks for the help guys. I think we need a fabricators sub-forum that Terry and Bill can head up. :cool:
SFO
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Feb 16, 2001
- 2,001
- 1
I am pretty sure that I have tig'd stainless bungs on ti head pipes.
I would probably not bother with plugging the sensor bung.
I would just get another head pipe and have one be your test and tune and one be the race pipe.
If I remember right I used ti filler on the bungs.
your results may vary... :yikes:
Hey Terry, did you ever chat with Master Crowther?
I would probably not bother with plugging the sensor bung.
I would just get another head pipe and have one be your test and tune and one be the race pipe.
If I remember right I used ti filler on the bungs.
your results may vary... :yikes:
Hey Terry, did you ever chat with Master Crowther?
ochster
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Mar 11, 2000
- 690
- 0
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks guy's...
I have spare headers, so I can do that SFO. Definately feel free to give me some tips. I have drilled it using lots of sharp bits, plenty of lube, slow speed and lots of pressure, but nothing larger than .250, mostly .025-.080 aerospace fab stuff.
OL'89r, you have a pm and THANKS!
I sent out near 30 e-mails to any related manufacturer I could think of about the Ti bungs. Not one turned up! and several e-mails said if I found a source to let them know.
I have spare headers, so I can do that SFO. Definately feel free to give me some tips. I have drilled it using lots of sharp bits, plenty of lube, slow speed and lots of pressure, but nothing larger than .250, mostly .025-.080 aerospace fab stuff.
OL'89r, you have a pm and THANKS!
I sent out near 30 e-mails to any related manufacturer I could think of about the Ti bungs. Not one turned up! and several e-mails said if I found a source to let them know.
SFO
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Feb 16, 2001
- 2,001
- 1
#1, sharp tooling.
Hs steel or cobalt will be fine as long as it is sharp, carbide drills are nice because they suck up the heat but regular HS will work if it cuts instead of rubbing.
It will work harden and grab your drill in an instant rendering said part and drill useless.
Think of it like machining SS only gummier and grabbier
Get the chips out, I had a high pressure coolant (120psi) set up on a gun drill when we drilled axles.
Use an EMUGE tap for tough alloys.
this will be the costly part.
Try MSC.
Instead of trying to make a deep bung I might buy a premanufactured nut and turn the od fitting it into a piece of tubing that will give you your sensor offset.
Or, just buy said nut and slag it onto your header as is.
Or, buy a nut of a larger thd pitch and id and make a time cert style adapter out of brass or bronze that will allow you to machine everything out of non moonmetal (read easier) materials.
Or, just get an 18mm nut and blaze your 1.5mm pitch tap through it useing some pipe dope for a seal.
Hs steel or cobalt will be fine as long as it is sharp, carbide drills are nice because they suck up the heat but regular HS will work if it cuts instead of rubbing.
It will work harden and grab your drill in an instant rendering said part and drill useless.
Think of it like machining SS only gummier and grabbier
Get the chips out, I had a high pressure coolant (120psi) set up on a gun drill when we drilled axles.
Use an EMUGE tap for tough alloys.
this will be the costly part.
Try MSC.
Instead of trying to make a deep bung I might buy a premanufactured nut and turn the od fitting it into a piece of tubing that will give you your sensor offset.
Or, just buy said nut and slag it onto your header as is.
Or, buy a nut of a larger thd pitch and id and make a time cert style adapter out of brass or bronze that will allow you to machine everything out of non moonmetal (read easier) materials.
Or, just get an 18mm nut and blaze your 1.5mm pitch tap through it useing some pipe dope for a seal.
Ol'89r
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 27, 2000
- 6,961
- 45
SFO said:
No I haven't called him yet Bill. I have to do that soon. Just been buried with work in the shop with the start of the season and all.
I'm going to the Trailblazers banquet tonight, he may be there.
Mark. I found the Ti stock, should be enough to make a couple bungs. Will ship it to you next week. Got your PM. :cool:
It is in 'CP' condition. That is the most machinable and workable state. The OD should be right on, all you have to do is bore it and tap it. Be sure to tap it before you tig it on. That stuff will work harden if you just look at it funny. Like Bill said, it is a lot like working with SS and welds in much the same way.
Oh, and BTW, if they don't stop building houses around me, I'm going to have lots of property for sale in Corona. :(
Good luck, have fun and keep your fingers out of the chips. :cool: They are like little razor blades.
Ol'89r
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 27, 2000
- 6,961
- 45
Mark.
Part going out today, UPS.
I also sent along a little bit of Ti welding rod.
When you weld it, set your machine up like you were welding SS with the exception of the post flow adjustment. This part is VERY IMPORTANT. Set your post flow to at least 10 seconds of flow. Be VERY CAREFUL not to remove your torch from the weld area until all of the color is gone. If the gas shuts off before the weld is cool, tap your pedal to get it flowing again. If the gas flow shuts off or you remove the torch from the weld area before it is cool, it will instantly contaminate the weld.
There should be enough Ti for two bungs. You can cut it in half with a band saw using a bi-metal blade.
If you have any questions, call me.
Have fun. :cool:
Terry.
Part going out today, UPS.
I also sent along a little bit of Ti welding rod.
When you weld it, set your machine up like you were welding SS with the exception of the post flow adjustment. This part is VERY IMPORTANT. Set your post flow to at least 10 seconds of flow. Be VERY CAREFUL not to remove your torch from the weld area until all of the color is gone. If the gas shuts off before the weld is cool, tap your pedal to get it flowing again. If the gas flow shuts off or you remove the torch from the weld area before it is cool, it will instantly contaminate the weld.
There should be enough Ti for two bungs. You can cut it in half with a band saw using a bi-metal blade.
If you have any questions, call me.
Have fun. :cool:
Terry.
