As the thread suggests, I'm needing to buy one. I have searched the Topics, forums and I'm coming up with threads that are old, like 2002 old. Some of the brands that are suggested have either discontinued most of their stuff (Husky) or the ratings and reviews are scary (Craftsman) or you have to spend BIG bucks, excess of $300.00 (Snap On). My pockets are deep, but not that deep. Looking to get a quality wrench with out breaking the bank. Thanks Dennis
Torque wrench needed, reasonable suggestions?
- Thread starter denbsteph
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Dirtdame
Member
- Apr 10, 2010
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I own Matco 1/2 and 3/8 clicker models and an old Bonney 1/4 inch clicker model. I also have a 3/8 Harbor Freight clicker (for the mobile tool box) that I checked against my expensive ones. It seems as accurate at a fraction of the cost. The main problem that I have found with cheap ones is that if you try to use them near the top of their rated range, they will break.
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The Matco TRA200 1/4" (30-200 inch pounds) is an excellent piece that will stay accurate and last a very long time with a minimal amount of care. Precision Instruments makes the best torque wrench for the money (in my opinion) in the larger sizes, but I agree that the Matco stuff is first rate as well.
As for Chinese discount torque wrenches, if someone left a case of them on my doorstep I'd use them to fill the pothole in my street. That's about all they are good for. ;)
As for Chinese discount torque wrenches, if someone left a case of them on my doorstep I'd use them to fill the pothole in my street. That's about all they are good for. ;)
- Jul 20, 2009
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I use a Warren and Brown (Australian brand) and I get it recalibrated every few years, it has been excellent. In the long run you will regret spending too little more than spending too much. In regard to old torque wrenches, mine is 25yrs old and is still superb, money well worth spending. As a youngster, before getting a torque wrench I used to do it up until the thread stripped and then back it off 3/4 of a turn. :joke:
Whatever brand you go with, multiply the expense times 3 to get wrenches to cover all the different sized fasteners and torque ranges.
I have been using Craftsman since 2002, and they seem to work well. They are on sale sometimes and three of them is not too expensive. I am not doing it for a living, so spending $1,000 to get some high end ones can not be justified for me.
I don't want to use the Harbor Freight / Pittsburgh stuff. Each of us has his own level of trust.
I have been using Craftsman since 2002, and they seem to work well. They are on sale sometimes and three of them is not too expensive. I am not doing it for a living, so spending $1,000 to get some high end ones can not be justified for me.
I don't want to use the Harbor Freight / Pittsburgh stuff. Each of us has his own level of trust.
This is like the one I bought 25yrs ago, not sure if its made in USA any more though
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...e=G4&prdNo=4&i_cntr=1299536821821#reviewsWrap
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...e=G4&prdNo=4&i_cntr=1299536821821#reviewsWrap
denbsteph, here is the main one I am referring to:
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...orque+Wrenches&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1
This range of torque fits the most fasteners of the three types I have.
If you are in the Craftsman Club, you can get them cheaper sometimes on sale. Sometimes they have regular sales, also.
I keep them stored in cases and loosen the spring tension and they continue to work well for me.
No matter which brand you go with, congratulations on getting serious enough about bikes to understand that you DO need to get one. I snapped my share of bolts and lost my fair share of "not tight enough" bolts before getting the torqe wrenches.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...orque+Wrenches&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1
This range of torque fits the most fasteners of the three types I have.
If you are in the Craftsman Club, you can get them cheaper sometimes on sale. Sometimes they have regular sales, also.
I keep them stored in cases and loosen the spring tension and they continue to work well for me.
No matter which brand you go with, congratulations on getting serious enough about bikes to understand that you DO need to get one. I snapped my share of bolts and lost my fair share of "not tight enough" bolts before getting the torqe wrenches.
The biggest 1st point, is that the torque is the same. Doing the head and they are all over the place will cause problems. Constant over torque will prematurely stretch the nuts and studs/bolts, and this will happen eventually either way. Finally getting the correct tool is half the problem, some damage has already been done? The beam style is miles better than nothing. The clicker feel difference, between a quality tool and Craftsman is quite a bit. And at that, it does take some getting used to! The beam is easier to adapt to. The way I see it! The heck with the happy part.
While the beam type wrench is cheaper and doesn't require regular calibration, it is almost impossible to use when the fasterners require more than about 70ft/lbs....you can't get your face directly in front of the scale and still apply the needed force. For this reason alone, I use clickers.
I have three, one 1/4" drive in inch pounds, a 3/8" drive, and a big 1/2" drive for larger fasteners.
Remember: the top 10% and the bottom 10% of the scale on any clicker will not be accurate....so you may need two wrenches to cover all your bases accurately.
I have three, one 1/4" drive in inch pounds, a 3/8" drive, and a big 1/2" drive for larger fasteners.
Remember: the top 10% and the bottom 10% of the scale on any clicker will not be accurate....so you may need two wrenches to cover all your bases accurately.
- Thread starter
- #16
whenfoxforks_ruled:
No damage has been done to any nuts, that's why I'm getting a torque wrench, so the unfortunate does not happen. I had a beam torque wrench many years ago, and from what I remember, it did what it was supposed to do. The most disturbing thing that bothers me is the clickers having issues is, ie: can't see the numbers, if you don't ease the tension off them they will break, etc,etc,etc. The only thing I have heard bad about beam type wrenches is............. not really anything. Is that because no one uses them any more? or does society say they are not accurate? (going a political on ya) Dennis
No damage has been done to any nuts, that's why I'm getting a torque wrench, so the unfortunate does not happen. I had a beam torque wrench many years ago, and from what I remember, it did what it was supposed to do. The most disturbing thing that bothers me is the clickers having issues is, ie: can't see the numbers, if you don't ease the tension off them they will break, etc,etc,etc. The only thing I have heard bad about beam type wrenches is............. not really anything. Is that because no one uses them any more? or does society say they are not accurate? (going a political on ya) Dennis
the old beam type is not as accurate and has a built in error in it if you look at the pointer from different angles.......the clicker types are spring loaded, the spring can and will sag and set especially if you leave them loaded in your toolbox(not returned to zero)
My opinion is that if you have a clear line of sight of the pointer and are only doing one bolt the beam type would be more rugged and less damaged in a rough environment but the click type would be more uniform in multiple bolt assemblies ie; all the head bolts may not be exactly at 25 ft/lbs because you dropped the wrench but atleast they will all be really close to each other
My opinion is that if you have a clear line of sight of the pointer and are only doing one bolt the beam type would be more rugged and less damaged in a rough environment but the click type would be more uniform in multiple bolt assemblies ie; all the head bolts may not be exactly at 25 ft/lbs because you dropped the wrench but atleast they will all be really close to each other
I have never heard of issues with the clicker style. Other than the cheap ones, or getting used to it. Set it and forget it. I could see getting feets and inches messed up more? Are you sure its not the beam style you heard bad things about? If its money, get the 3/8ths first, the half inch later. The 1/4, where does one need that at? PW50? Vintage Bob
Automotive applications, mostly.whenfoxforks-ruled said:
However, if I'm torquing 6mm fasteners, the inch/pound torque wrench will be much more accurate, since a ft/lb wrench that goes down to 10 ft/lbs is truly accurate only above about 30 ft/lbs (depending on the range of the particular wrench).
A grade 10.9 6mm requires a maximum of 7 ft/lbs, and grade 10.9 8mm fasteners has a maximum of 14 ft/lbs (in aluminum), so you can see that a normal 3/8" drive 10-100 foot/pound wrench cannot be used on 6mm fasteners, and may not give accurate readings on 8mm fasteners.
Most guys are not willing to go to a torque wrench on those small fasteners, though, and probably wouldn't spend the money on the small torque wrench. The good mechanics will.
:)
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How does one determine if a bolt or nut thread is stretched?
Actually, threads don't stretch(that is "elongate"), they pull, that is they deform. If you can't apply full torque on a fastener, the threads are pulled/have been deformed.
Usually, the female threads in aluminum will pull first, since the steel bolt is much, much stronger.
NOTE: if, as you are tightening down on a fastener, it starts to get easier instead of harder, you can pretty much assume you've pulled threads. :(
EDIT: "elongate" and "deformed" added for clarification.
Usually, the female threads in aluminum will pull first, since the steel bolt is much, much stronger.
NOTE: if, as you are tightening down on a fastener, it starts to get easier instead of harder, you can pretty much assume you've pulled threads. :(
EDIT: "elongate" and "deformed" added for clarification.
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That is too far. You can stretch the threads, and they will still work, to some degree. A thread gauge where the nut gets seated, you can see the pitch change, actually straighten out, before it rips the thread off. This will cause false torque readings. The softer the metal, the easier the thread gets stretched/pulled/stripped. In that order. I am going to try all plastic fasteners!
