I have a '91 KDX 250. I have very mooshy brakes. So much to the point that my lever meets the grip before really starting to work. I ran a thread a couple months ago and got some advice, however this problem is not going away.
I have Replaced the caliper with a brand new one from Kawasaki, replaced the brake line with a steel braided one, put new piston and seals in the master cylinder, and bled the sucker for many hours using the following methods:
1. The old fashion way (depress the lever - open the bleed screw)
2. Reverse bleeding (compressing the piston and pushing the air out the resivor)
3. Using a mighty vac hand pump
4. Raising the caliper above the master cylinder then #1
I recently became convinced that it's not air in the system because when I tried to reverse bleed I had to use C-clamps to press the piston in. After doing so (with the clamps still in place) I gave the lever a pump and it was rock solid. I cheered ...reasembled it...pumped it back up and it was mooshy.
I took it to a motorcycle repair shop. The mechanic noticed that the side of the caliper closest to the wheel has to travel quite a bit before fully engaging and by that time the brake lever hits the handle bars.
My rotor is 3.2 mm thick I don't know the wear limit, my brake pads are brand new. Why isn't the caliper holding the pads snug against the rotor even when not being activated by pulling the brake handle. Isn't this how they usually work. Initially I thought it may be a defective caliper but nothing has changed between the old and the new making me think it's not the problem.
The last thing I tried was leaving my bike out in front of my house but no one would even steal it. Is there someone out there who has conquered this beast?
Severely frustrated, 300 dollars poorer, and 40 hours lost.:(
I have Replaced the caliper with a brand new one from Kawasaki, replaced the brake line with a steel braided one, put new piston and seals in the master cylinder, and bled the sucker for many hours using the following methods:
1. The old fashion way (depress the lever - open the bleed screw)
2. Reverse bleeding (compressing the piston and pushing the air out the resivor)
3. Using a mighty vac hand pump
4. Raising the caliper above the master cylinder then #1
I recently became convinced that it's not air in the system because when I tried to reverse bleed I had to use C-clamps to press the piston in. After doing so (with the clamps still in place) I gave the lever a pump and it was rock solid. I cheered ...reasembled it...pumped it back up and it was mooshy.
I took it to a motorcycle repair shop. The mechanic noticed that the side of the caliper closest to the wheel has to travel quite a bit before fully engaging and by that time the brake lever hits the handle bars.
My rotor is 3.2 mm thick I don't know the wear limit, my brake pads are brand new. Why isn't the caliper holding the pads snug against the rotor even when not being activated by pulling the brake handle. Isn't this how they usually work. Initially I thought it may be a defective caliper but nothing has changed between the old and the new making me think it's not the problem.
The last thing I tried was leaving my bike out in front of my house but no one would even steal it. Is there someone out there who has conquered this beast?
Severely frustrated, 300 dollars poorer, and 40 hours lost.:(