Wiseco Installation

Pay attention to the part of the Wiseco sheet that talks about clearances. A forged piston like the Wiseco requires a different clearance than a cast (i.e. stock) piston does. Other than that, be sure to give the cylinder a good wash in soap and water before reassembly.

Here’s a good thread on cylinder prep. Standard Kawasaki plating is about the thinnest in the business. I’ll leave you to decide for yourself about the hone-or-not-to-hone question. There’s a lot of discussion on that topic.

http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=42210

Here's another good read
http://ericgorr.com/techarticles/twotopweb.html

Definately check the ring end gap before installing the piston. I recently rebuilt my KDX200 with a new Wiseco piston kit and I needed to file a little of the ring ends to make sure the required gap is met. If there is not enough or too much then it could definately lead to trouble. Wiseco and the Kawa manual explain this procedure and the importance of it.

Filing a dykes ringset isn't generally done. Even if the gap is widened, there is the locating pin to consider.

Not that it can't be done.

Why Wiseco? They have only one size of piston. A Pro-X will come in the multiple alpha designates that indicate different sizes. Yeah..only 1/2 of one thousandth from one size to the other, but it does give you the chance to pretty much custom fit to any situation.

'General lubrication'??

I'm not sure what that means. There are lubrication points on re-assy for sure. The piston should immersed (or as good as) in 2-stroke oil. You definitely want the rings/lands and skirt lubricated. Same for the wrist pin and small end bearing.

The subport drums and a couple of other KIPS points should be lubricated also. Those points are listed in your manual.

Make sure the KIPS works as it should after the head is bolted on (18ft/lb-216"/lb as I recall btw).

If you don't lubricate it as indicated, it might not (work) as it should. ANY binding in that area MUST be resolved.

Oh...and 'resolution' doesn't mean loosening the head nuts, either!

As noted in EG's write-up, be sure to guide the rings past the intake port (via access THRU the intake port) on assy. They can snag.

Actually, there's a whole lotta stuff to take into consideration...like being sure you protect the crankcase (cover with clean rags) on assy as you don't want to be fishing a pin clip out of that cavity after it goes s-p-r-o-i-n-g someplace.

Oh..and if it's a Seizeco..I mean WISEco...make sure the clips fit into the piston groove as they should. Wiseco made some wrist pins that were a bit long preventing full seating of the clip.

Those clips have come out when running. That's not a good thing.

Look at the bright side...maybe you'll get to do it all over again (if that happens).

If you have a specific question, please ask. 'Any special instructions..' is a bit broad. Maybe this is your 11'y-second engine rebuild..maybe not.

hhhmmmm.....don't remember the rings I had from Wiseco being dykes. Were standard grove piston rings unlike the original Kawa's. Putting the piston ring into the cylinder by itself about 1/2 inch from top and using the piston itself to "square" it in the cylinder. Then measure the ring end gap with a feeler gage. I don't have my service manual near me but it needs to be within certain limits. Too tight could lead to seizure, too wide of a gap and you'll lose compression. Either way once you have determined that it is correct then yes you will need to line the ring end gaps with the notches on the piston. This is to ensure that the ring end gap is not positioned at the intake or exhaust ports which will cause them to catch and...well I think you know this would not be good. Check out the instructions that are in the Kawa service manual and also the lit that came with the Wiseco piston.