Zerk fitting in swingarm....pictures.

Jaybird

Apprentice Goon
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 16, 2001
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Charlestown, IN
Tantrum,
Apparently the spooge topic came up when you were at the dealer. I wouldn't expect him to know proper jetting technique, but he is on target with changing the packing. Is your silencer welded shut or does it have rivets on one end? I suggest either drilling the rivets out and replaceing with screws, or buying a new silencer....in any event you need to change your packing. He is correct to a point in that even with your jetting spot-on, a clogged, soaked packing will emulate spoogy jetting.
 

DVO

Member
Nov 3, 2001
231
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Anyways, I have drilled all my old stuff and re-installed it with all zerks in place.
:confused: did you drill anything besides holes for the zerks?
 

Tantrum

Member
Dec 4, 2001
197
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Originally posted by Jaybird
Tantrum,
Apparently the spooge topic came up when you were at the dealer. I wouldn't expect him to know proper jetting technique, but he is on target with changing the packing. Is your silencer welded shut or does it have rivets on one end? I suggest either drilling the rivets out and replaceing with screws, or buying a new silencer....in any event you need to change your packing. He is correct to a point in that even with your jetting spot-on, a clogged, soaked packing will emulate spoogy jetting.


The stock silencer has no rivets or packing. Its is a welded shut chamber with nothing but screens that act as sliencers. So for him to tell me to re-pack it is absolutely rediculous. As for the jetting, yeah I dont expect him to know how to jet, BUT I do expect him to carry at least 2-3 different sizes of jets. He did not carry ANY jets of any kind, not even stock sizes.
Gotta get to work. Chow

B.
 

DVO

Member
Nov 3, 2001
231
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ch-ching!

Tantrum:
Just got in from the shed. Installed the s-arm, torqued everything up, put the g-gun to work and watched it ooze. :)
On the s-arm pivot points the grease comes out whichever side it wants to but you can make it change sides by adding a little pressure to the opposite side. I used a little (6in?) prybar between the frame and the s-arm to nudge it to the other side while injecting;)
The lower tie-rod bearing wasn't so simple. With it torqued up I could get no grease to escape whatsoever. I had to back off the nut and then it worked fine, just like the pivot bearings. I don't consider this a problem though, 'cause if I have to back it off for pressurized grease to get out, then a squirt every once in a while will be sufficient to keep it well lubed. This worked better than expected. Like I said before, I wish I could post pictures. I don't understand why it's not a common thing to do. I know there are skeptics about this whole thing but even if it doesn't completely save bearings it'll definitely prolong their lives and for just pennies. Now that's a deal. Let me know your own results when you get yours together.
Good luck, DVO
 

Uechi45

Member
Dec 11, 2000
44
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Have you 2 stroke guys looked at the 4 srtoke Suzuki DR-Z400?
3 grease fittings on the linkage from the factory. I'm sure they have machined channels into the approriate parts so that the grease gets into the right places. You might want to post on Thumper Central and ask how effective this works on the DRZ's.
 

DVO

Member
Nov 3, 2001
231
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Sorry for my ignorance but where can I find this "thumper central"?
I'd like to see the set-up and their solutions. Thanx, DVO
 

NYkdxer

Member
Feb 21, 2003
62
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I've got 4 weeks till I can ride again (broken ankle) and I'm in the process of tearing down my 89 KDX. I like the idea of zerking the linkage and pivots. I tried doing a search, but it isn't working, so I went through all the old posts. I found this one and was wondering if anyone else had done it. For those that have done it, how is it workin out? Any pics of the procedure? Thanks a ton.
 

Tantrum

Member
Dec 4, 2001
197
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As you can see from the first post on this thread, I have done it and there at one time was pictures of it. It worked out great and I have tweaked the mod even more to work even better.
 

TVRider

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Oct 29, 2002
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Tantrum,

Is $12 a year really going to break your budget? Where do you think all this bandwidth comes from? Is it free? Stop and think, have you receive even 1 bit of advice from this site that you would have paid $12 for if it was commercially available?

This is the best run site on the internet. More information, constant feedback, good people! Pony up and quit whining. I know it hurts because you were getting full service for free until recently but cost prohibitions have brought that to an end.

If you really feel that way about the people that run this site then be a man quit posting, walk away and don't come back!!!
 

tedkxkdx

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Feb 6, 2003
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Originally posted by Tantrum
DVO,

What I propose and am in the middle of fabricating, only because the weather is so bad here and I can't ride, is disks of high molecular plastic. This plastic is extremely hard, but at the same time extremely slick. It is almost like a kind teflon.


So the big question I have is, we spend all this time to keep these small bearings lubed. Why can't we have something else besides bearings. How about a metal or plastic sleeve with another plastic sleeve fitting into the first that replaces the entire bearing assembly. No small pins that seem to be outdated with the technology that exists these days.
The big question is how much force is applied to these bearings. At times I suppose a lot when hitting a square edge bump but I believe there is some form of plastic that could have tight tolerences and high strength. You could still lube the plastic but the rust issue is gone from the equation. I feel the bottom shock bearing would benefit from this immensely as well.
Thoughts.
 

mulerider

Member
Mar 21, 2003
20
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My 86 had a grease zerk right in the pivot bolt on the nut side. I think this was stock because they included it in the service manual. Essentially the pivot (swingarm) bolt was bored out with 2 ports in the middle of the needle bearings. This ensured grease gets to the needle bearings.

As a general rule 1 to 3 pumps of a grease gun is all you need. To much grease can cause problems also. If a bearing is overloaded it has no place to relieve itself of spent grease. that spent grease gets hot and increases the temp of the bearing itself. When bearing temps get to hot they expand and you lose the clearence inside the bearing that the needls/balls need to run smoothly and friction free. Essentially they skid along the race, and if they skid there is no lubrication between the balls/needles and the races.

I always used to take my wheel bearing and pull the rubber seal from them and pack as much grease into them as I could. I could never figure out why after 2/3 scrambles I had to change my wheel bearings. They would be sloppy or just plain tore up. I thought I was doing good by adding the extra grease, after all anyone look at a new bearing and see how much grease is in it? Not much, but that is by design from the bearing manufacturer.

A little grease is all you need, along with regular cleaning and maintanence your bearing will last alot longer.
 

Tantrum

Member
Dec 4, 2001
197
0
Sure, NY. I can do that. It might take me a little bit to dig up those photos and add some new pictures from the recent mod to tighten up the width within the swingarm area. This centers the swingarm within the frame and does not allow for much side to side movement that previously allowed much of the seal to become exposed to the elements.
 

DVO

Member
Nov 3, 2001
231
0
I still have pics hanging around and if anyones interested, post your address and I'll send 'em. Note: they're not all j-pegged so some of 'em are big files. but I'd be happy to help. DVO
 
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