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Jetting a carburetor isn’t rocket science. Everyone who owns a dirt bike with a carburetor on it really should take their carburetor off the dirt bike at least once, and take it apart to see how it works. They are incredibly simple, and elegant solutions to atomizing fuel before it enters the combustion chambers of our internal combustion engines.
Lets do some VERY BASIC carburetor 101 here. Once you understand that there is an “idle circuit or Jet” that controls the fuel/air mix from closed throttle to about the 1/4 throttle position, a “needle jet” that controls the fuel/air mix from about 1/4 up to 3/4 throttle, and a “main” jet or circuit that controls the fuel/air mix from about 3/4 throttle to fully wide open, you begin to understand how making changes to those areas make a huge difference to what you are trying to accomplish.
For my money, I like to focus on getting the right “needle” in the bike since it covers the bulk of the throttle range and is where I’m mostly riding. It’s amazing how even changing the needle clip position effects the way your dirt bike runs. Move the needle clip UP/Higher on the needle to lean the mixture out, and move the clip DOWN/Lower on the needle to en-richen the mix.
Second to the needle in my book, but certainly no less important, is the idle circuit. That is where you are riding during starting out and all of the “technical stuff”. Get the idle circuit dialed in properly and your bike will not “bog” and will make a clean, predicable transition from idle, giving you the power you need to get the bike moving and keep it moving.
Once you get those first two dialed in, then comes the “main jet”. This is the one that seems to get all the attention, but really only makes a major difference when you are 3/4 throttle and up. For the type of riding I do, this isn’t the bulk of my time.
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