heres my latest mad cap idea-single sub tank.

Rcannon

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Nov 17, 2001
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Marcus, watch egay. I bought a spare set of YZ caps for 5.00. I drilled them and have a backup unmollested set.

I felt funny drilling my only set as well.
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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You see guys the whole idea was this

1 make a sub tank from easy to get parts
2 make it simple and not have tanks floating around
3 not drill the caps as this makes it a non diy job.

im fairly sure the restriction is the valve mainly -its 2.5mm going in but the assemebly has a smaller hole further up, you can tell by removing it and pumping the fork, compared to with the valve full open-the noise is very different.

So i have 2 options

1 go for a enzo type setup-doubt full as i dont feel the rmz has much room for tanks and i have to drill caps.

2 i was thinking of mounting a new setup.It would have tubes of 2.5mm i/d from both legs going to the bar tank using a T peice, the restriction would be the single tube to the tank-this is non adjustable but better than nothing maybe?Im fairly sure this would give a sensation of speed sensitive damping and would be cheap and easy to fit but not adjustable in any way.
 

elf

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Jun 7, 2003
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Marcus my enzos are SAE 1/4 28 tap. so there letting a lot more air through than your setup.
Plan no. 2 sounds good, you can also ajust tank volume by adding length to your hoses.
 

Rcannon

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Nov 17, 2001
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I am not exactly Mr Subtank the expert, but in the dammed limitied time I have used mine, the adjustment is a must. I dont think I woudl be happy all the time with any setting I have found so far.

The tuning options on this tank amazes me. I would be setteling for less if I had to leave it in a specific position. If so, why bother???
 

jmics19067

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Jan 22, 2002
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I Is it feasible to run your fitting and tubing straight out of the fork with less bulkiness/restriction and then put a larger valve/fitting at the handlebar. Is their room for more flow by just having a straight hose barb out of the fork and then a larger valve/ fitting at the bars??

also if wide open valving on one fork is only a minor difference, what if you run one hose from one fork straight through to the bars and then close down the other with the valve?
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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jmics19067 said:
I Is it feasible to run your fitting and tubing straight out of the fork with less bulkiness/restriction and then put a larger valve/fitting at the handlebar. Is their room for more flow by just having a straight hose barb out of the fork and then a larger valve/ fitting at the bars??

not really this is where the sticking point is, the bleed holes are 5mm , so the biggest hole you can have is not much more than 2.5mm as the walls become real thing(threaded dont forget) to make the system work it does really need to be more like a enzo whith bigger bore tubing IMO, after what Rcannon says i think i will scrap the non adjustable setup i was going to do next, so overall the thoery is good :fft: but i need to drill the caps and use larger tubing and valve.

Ive already put some time and a little money into this project and im not very into doing much more with it :ugg: i think i need to ride a sub tank setup to prove its worth the effort before i go on. :ride:
 

jmics19067

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Jan 22, 2002
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marcusgunby said:
so overall the thoery is good :fft: but i need to drill the caps and use larger tubing and valve.
:

:yikes: you weren't directing that :fft: at me were you :laugh:

I definately like the idea of using the bars. sure beats having a beer keg up there unless of course it was a reel beer keg up there
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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LOL no, but ive had a new idea, im going to try to run one fork leg to the tank with no restriction, then use the restrictor on the other side, im hoping this will give me enough free movement of air to make me feel the tank working, but still have adjustment.It maybe it will be case of full hard to full soft to feel much but its better than a pile of parts sitting in my garage :ride:
 

jmics19067

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Jan 22, 2002
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the cross bar idea looks great and with Marcus' 1-1/8 bars you should be able to fabricate something easy off the handlebar clamps without having to make an actual cross bar.
But I am still inclined to the original idea of using the bar itself since there is very little fabrication only some plumbing issues to work out, plus the fact it was the first picture I seen
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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it seems a little strange to make a cross bar when i have a tank inside the bar? the main issue is the control -by the looks of that setup he uses big bore pipework-thats what i need to do to make it work as intended.But im going to try the method i said as im interested.
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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well decided to play some more :), i used just a right angled connector from one leg to the bars, this has no restrictor and a bore of 2.5mm , this effectively gave me a large airspring in one fork leg, before the test the cable tie was 1" from the bottom, with the new sub tank it was about 0.5" from the bottom showing it did make a difference, the fork felt a little better on slap down landings as well.I can conclude the 2.5mm hole is providing some restriction,its working but not fully.Im going to do the whole test again with 4mm i/d tubing and i will have to drill one cap, i will use a variable restrictor on this setup.

Interesting point was i gave 2 other riders(one ex amature champion) a ride on my bike, and neither could feel anything weird and both said the forks gave a decent ride.
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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Mk3 Lol

This is using 1/8bsp connector and 4.5mm i/d tubing.

Will let you know how it works this weekend.
 

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marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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Well i am fairly pleased overall-the idea worked this time, i could feel a difference, the adjuster has 10 turns, on full soft i could bottom the fork hard, never been able to bottom them before, on full stiff the fork is just a normal fork, and i ended up at the mid point for now-i had a little travel left but had gone in a few click on the comp adjuster as well.Overall they worked well and gave a nice ride on the jumpy track i rode today-for the cost im very pleased, i just need to valve the fork softer to get the clicker back near the middle-its at 13 out now-i would like to nearer 11.
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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Update-no one who rode the bike ever thought it had vastly different settings on either fork, and the bars were showing zero signs of stress with over 6 months of riding, the bars are actually 3 years old and looked like new still.The bike is now sold and i will be able to see if anything happens as the new owner is a friend :yikes:
 
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