now i am fine tuning with BV

[FSracing]

Here is the historic of my forks valving steps
(kx 250 01 try to make it woods bike.. springs are ok for 175lbs)

1- modified the Basevalve
Was
24x0.1 (X10)
22x0.1
20x0.1
18x0.1
16x0.1
14x0.1
11x0.2
18x? (X2)

Went for 24x0.1 (x3) this is the only change i have done to the BV, helped a little bit but not to much....Still too stiff

2- Changed the midvalve to a check
it really did the trick and the forks finally came alive. Now soak up well ruts and rocks.

Now i've been riding this setup for couple of days and feel like i have to fine tune on the base valve. The forks work great but i still have to much feedback. (it's weird though, i feel like the first stroke is soft and soak up every thing but the other half still give my some bad feedback) and i can't use the last 1 inch of stroke at all. And now am not really sure what to do. It happens when i go fast on rocky stuff when am stand up on the bike but when i ride on tight rocky trails at medium and slow bike speed and lower my body weight, it really work well... At this point it's hard to determine if it is LSC or HSC to play with. i tried different oil level for sure went from 100mm to 120mm but didn't notice much. i use 5wt maybe another weight would help too?

I may try just pull off the 16x0.1 shim ? which would softer the whole stack.

 

[marcusgunby]

Have you removed the bladders?i always do.

 

[FSracing]

What removing the bladders suppose to do?... I dont really understand the purpose of this bladder...by bladder you mean the kinda big black plastic cylinder in the fork leg? Inside which the active stack is?

 

[FSracing]

After reading old posts about Bladders i do understand how the bladder and RB (washer) work. I didn't find how to remove the bladder though. Do i have to only pull apart the black elastomer with the two retaining springs and the RB washer.

How about as Jeremy suggered leaving the bladder in and just take off the RB washer, and set the oil level higher to compensate. I know you wanted to try that way but you ended up removing the bladder and the RB at the same time...

 

[FSracing]

By the way thanks you Marcus for letting me aware....again...about that mod...Your previews posting have been helpful too.

Ok this is what i 'll take out: The bladder, with the 3 little springs, the collar which hold the bladder.. (dont i have to throw something else)

Everything is under control exept for the RB washer, people said don't put the spring direct without washer otherwise it might get stunk by not spinning when compressed...

I 've heard that i have to drill some holes in the washer instead of taking it off ...Have you ever setup the spring without washer at all or do you use a special washer or the you drill holes in the actual RB washer?

Any help is always really appreciated ...

 

[marcusgunby]

I did remove the rb washer and didnt have the spring hang up-but i could see how it might-i would drill some holes in it now.

I never tried just removing the effect of the rb, so cant comment on the performance of that mod alone.I remove the rb and on the bladder part i remove the 3 springs at the top, and the bottom part has a spring clip like a shock bladder-remove that as well.

 

[FSracing]

Ok here's a ride report after the bladders gone..

I set up the oil level at 120 mm as it was with the bladder in, i pulled the RB washer, white seal, and bladder... I feel the forks more consistent but overly harder than my previews setting so it still hard:stiff on really rough rocky trails. i am gonna try to lower the oil level to 135mm i see if it's better but never had good changement only by playing with that.... my next step would be as i said pull off the 16x0.1 shim ... (based on the 5inch diamater log i have in my backyard when i go over it i still feel harsness in the fork and worry about the rim each time... so i figured out the HSC is too strong still) any suggestions...

 

[marcusgunby]

go for the lowest oil level reccomended in the manual, if that doesnt work try the 16 shim.Good luck.