rc valve shaft 04 cr250
- Thread starter danocr250
- Start date
Under the RC valve cover (take it off after removing the 4 bolts) you'll see the actuator that the cables attach to. Loosen the 10 mm bolt holding the actuator on, remove the cables. Remove the actuator. Underneath it is a plate held on by a single 6 or 7 mm bolt. Remove the bolt and the holding plate. Put the actuator back on the shaft, tighten the 10 mm bolt and use the actuator as a grip to pull the shaft out. It should come out easily.
I can't remove it on my 2002. I did remove the retainer first. I even tried to pry the actuator.
Is it possible the valves are stuck on the shaft? (And because the valves are stopped by the cylinder, the shaft stops with them.) My valves are well carbonized and there's rust on them for some reason. (How do you get rust on carbon?)
Is it possible the valves are stuck on the shaft? (And because the valves are stopped by the cylinder, the shaft stops with them.) My valves are well carbonized and there's rust on them for some reason. (How do you get rust on carbon?)
Pressure washer,sat outside or head leak?D36-108A said:
2 things that I know cause corrosion,moisture and electrolysis.
Geez,I had my three best guys working on a solution. Are you talking about 19 is stuck? I knew a guy who put center punch marks on the shaft where the valves ride,to prevent play in the fit! Shim where the threaded end sticks out with washers,and put a nut on it and draw it out? Douche with wd40 or some other penetrating fluid first. Other than the bozo with the prick punch,I have not heard of one seized.
I also had a sticky shaft on my 02. First you should try penetrating oil and hopefully that works. For mine, it didn't. So I with everything out of the cylinder and the cylinder off the engine, I used a small propane torch to heat up the power valves. After heating it for maybe 30-45 seconds I tapped it with a hammer and the shaft pulled out. The shaft didn't come out very easily, but I was able to summon all my man strength and pull it out by hand.
2 questions,did you have a coolant leak and did you use foul language when removing with man strength?soap said:
hahahaha I had just bought the bike, but I did not see a leak. I have ridden it for 6 months since then and there hasn't been any missing coolant. I think that the guy before me just never cleaned the crap off the valves (they were very dirty). After I removed them I hit them with metal brush and heat to burn the excessive carbon off. And yes. There were some choice words spoken when trying to get the shaft out.
I never thought about removing valves out of an unmaintained cylinder. Wonder how shooting some oven cleaner on the exhaust valves would do? Knowing prolonged contact with aluminum can discolor!
I took it to the local Honda shop, who were familar with stuck RC valve shafts. They got it out by applying heat, penetrating lubricant, and I don't know what else. Hear no evil, see no evil, pretend they are using a special puller tool not a big hammer.
BTW, first time apart in 4.5 years. I haven't added up the hours. Neither piston nor bore were significantly worn; I'll measure the clearance later. There was a wear spot in the cyl above the ex bridge, the rest had really nice crosshatching. The valves are going to need oven cleaner and a bead blaster. Or new ones if they are cheap.
I've got a Wiseco ready to go. Wondering why I should drill it if the stock piston doesn't have a hole at the ex bridge.
BTW, first time apart in 4.5 years. I haven't added up the hours. Neither piston nor bore were significantly worn; I'll measure the clearance later. There was a wear spot in the cyl above the ex bridge, the rest had really nice crosshatching. The valves are going to need oven cleaner and a bead blaster. Or new ones if they are cheap.
I've got a Wiseco ready to go. Wondering why I should drill it if the stock piston doesn't have a hole at the ex bridge.
Wiseco is very clear about drilling the holes in THEIR pistons.
