I just did my 01 KDX 220 piston last weekend. Ordered a Wiseco piston kit from RockyMountainMc.com Wiseco came recomended by several people. I just bought the bike 2 weeks ago and from reading here on the forums the stock Piston skirts have problems, so thats why I did mine. Not sure on time frames as far as how often people do it?
the stock pistons on ALL years 220 may have a cracking issue. If your bike remains bone stock, with no mods at all (including airbox) it may not be an issue. However if you add mods to your bike, pipe, airbox, reeds and so on then the bike begins to rev out more and the pistons become suseptable. Recently fattyk had his 220 piston grenade on him and it took out a lot of parts and money from his wallet. It was ironic because last year when he had it apart I suggested that he replace his piston with a Wiseco and all he did was re ring it. He said he really didn't have enough money for a piston too. When it broke he commented that he should have listened to the advice. Bottom line: Replace your 220's piston with a Wiseco, (NOT OEM) and breath easier -take the opportunity to clean the KIPS and evaluate your premix oil too. It may or may not crack on you, but if it does it sucks and can be really expensive. (cylinder, side cases, splitting the cases, repair head, etc = $$$$$) When I had my 220 I did the top end after my first season with about 1200 miles on the bike - cost about $150 for everything and the job was not that bad really. I never did power valves before so that was a learning experience-but not hard. I sure understand that it kinda sucks to have to repair a new bike, I thought that too but peace of mind and a sure bet that it will only cost $150 is better than $1500. At least it was for me. www.frpoffroad.com can help you with parts too.
The window in the OEM piston [intake side] is machined. Unfortunately, jagged edges remain on the inside --which are all cracks just waiting to happen. Compare your OEM to a Weisco on the inside ! If someone took the time to finish the machining [smooth & radius] with a rotary grinder or file & sandpaper, the OEM piston would probably [?] be just fine. The area just below that window is awfully thin and that's where the maximum side forces are seen.
I have my new to me, purchased last summer 1997 220 with all the MOD's listed above in pieces as we speak. I am awaiting a WISECO piston kit, wrist pin needle bearing, OEM gasket set and torq ring all from Fredette Racing Products. When I called to order I talked to Jeff himself, he was very helpful. There has been a slight shipping "SNAFU" but what the heck it's to cold to ride (for me) anyway.
I got bored one day a couple of weeks back and decided I would tear into mine and inspect the KIPS, piston, rings and bore. I'm glad I did. It still had the factory piston in it and after reading some of the horror stories on here READ: Fatty K's tale of destruction.
Also, while still functioning, my KIPS system was pretty "gunked up" and needed a good cleaning. This has been a first time expierence for me on a motor with a power valve but with a Kawi shop manual it has been pretty easy.
RE: How often. Mine is a 97 and still had the OEM piston, it may have had new rings at some point I don't know, but it still had good compression and ran good. I read in a thread a couple of weeks back where Canyon Carver had a couple of years and thousnds of miles on his 200. But the 200 OEM piston is not a $100.00 grenade.
RE: stock size. To my knowledge, someone please correct me if I'm wrong WISECO only offers one size for stock bores, where the OEM pistons have 4 different sizes that have an alpha numeric designation stamped on the top of the piston and the cylinder. Mine is a "B".
Good luck. And don't let the shipping "SNAFU" scare you away from Fredette, there good people. When I get the bank built back up I am going to order new brake pads and one of the KX style short kickers from him. :thumb:
srhill: Correct. Wiseco does NOT offer the alpha designations a,b,c,d (.01mm or roughly .0005") for tolerance variances.
Be sure to read the install notes on the FRP kicker. Ignore them and you may cause some serious damage to the RH engine cover.
**Note** The wiseco piston pin has had problems. Don't know if it was a particular production run or if it's an ongoing problem. The pin was a bit too long, not allowing the clips to seat properly.
Certainly, insure the pin clips s-n-a-p into place on install.
Certainly don't be tempted to reuse the old clips.
Is there a spirolock that fits? Those won't be coming out accidentally. Heck, it's hard enough to get them out when you WANT to!
re: how often
That can only be answered with, 'As often as needed.' The way the bike is maintained, the way it's ridden AND time-frame are important. Some track bikes get a new topend after a few hours. After two years and over 3000 miles, my 200 was just out of spec.
CC, thanks for the confirmation on the Wiseco size issue. I didn't want to put out any misleading info. We all know secretly that size does mater. :eek:
RE: read install notes. I do on just about everything before I start. It drives my wife and oldest son nuts. :flame: I've learned the hard way on more than one occasion.
I have already trashed the old circlips. I remember reading and tried to find the thread on the Wiseco circlip problem but had no luck. Does anyone know if this problem has been resolved?
And did someone chamfer the piston pin holes to get the clips to seat?
I positvely do not want to have to do anything like that.
**SAFETY NOTE** For anyone that has never done this before please put on eye protection before removing the old circlips. It's amazing how fast and how far those buggers can go if they get loose.
Thanks OUTRGUS for starting this timely thread, I needed this.
I still don't want to chamfer the piston pin holes. I would have nightmares about little metal filings that didn't get washed out floating around inside my engine.
My 220 piston blew up on me, and caused probably nearly $1200 in damage. Should have listened to Fred T! :) There are some pics in my album (link in my sig) of the cracked cases.
I still don't want to chamfer the piston pin holes. I would have nightmares about little metal filings that didn't get washed out floating around inside my engine.
If you reread the thread, I don't think Sage is talking about chamfering the pin hole in the piston [ Weiscos come nicely chamfered] If you choose to install an OEM piston, You can chamfer the pin hole and install the circlip quickly -- or spend 1/2 hour trying to force it into the square edged hole!
Hot water & detergent will clean out any & all metal chips.
"Would increasing the chamfer on one or both end be sufficient?"
I"ve don't have this quote thing down yet so I copied and pasted the 8th post of sages thread. When I read this I was thinking piston and not pin. Thanks.
I was just "assuming" and you know what that means :moon:
Report Post | IP: Logged
You say [ Weiscos come nicely chamfered] I say thanks for the info.
Re: Nightmares over metal chips.
Just trying to inject a little humor, pocking fun at myself for worrying about that kind of stuff.
I don't have Sage's address on hand but he usually has KDX Weiscos in stock at his Sage's Dirt & Street. The Weisco I bought from him was not from the "bad" batch and needed no grinding on the wrist pin. Just double check that the circlip really snaps into place.
outrgus-the Wiseco part # is 750PS. That comes with the rings but if you want extra rings, their part # is 2717CD.
I put a Wiseco in my '00 220 at only 25 hours due to the "grenade" scenario and I just checked it for wear during my winter overhaul. The new piston had 85 hours on it but hardly had any discernable wear! I'd guess that it should be good till 250 hours but that would depend on air filter maintenance. You should probably pull the cylinder off every 100 hours and check for wear.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.