Big Bore Stroker
Member
- Jun 28, 2006
- 94
- 0
I'd say that's a pretty clear sign that the seal needs to be replaced. The only question is what method you use to replace it.Big Bore Stroker said:...I removed the flywheel cover and spray carb cleaner behind the stator plate and engine's rpm raced even higher...
Red Pinger said:On most if not all bikes you can change the crank seals with out splitting the cases.They are installed from the outside of the case, not the inside. Your bike was loading up because your jetting was off. Turning the air screw won't help much if you jets are too rich. A worn top end could also contribute to running to rich. As far as the idle running away, if it didn't do it before you took it apart, chances are you screwed something up putting it back together. A run away engine is usually a sign of an air leak. If the flywheel side crank seal was sucking air that would make the bike run lean, not richer. If the clutch side seal was leaking bikes usually smoke excessivly.
Red Pinger said:So if the screw's pocket was not letting any air mix with the fuel, and now it is, you should be able to turn the screw all the way in and that would stop any air from getting through and your run away idle should go away. Correct?
Red Pinger said:On most if not all bikes you can change the crank seals with out splitting the cases.They are installed from the outside of the case, not the inside.
Big Bore Stroker said:...pressure tested crank case holds 6 psi for at least a minute or longer. Can't explain what happen when I sprayed the carb cleaner behind the stator plate since that side isn't leaking...
Bunya said:Repeat the carb cleaner test and see if you get the same result. As we've been discussing in another thread, the open side of lip seals will seal better with pressure on that side. Your crankcase goes thru both positive and negative pressure cycles therefore your seals need to maintain a seal in both conditions. The leakdown test only tests for positive crankcase pressure, not negative, and the added 6 psi you're using is helping the seals to seal. If spraying carb cleaner behind the stator causes any noticeable change in the engine, the seal is leaking with negative crankcase pressure and needs to be changed. Although it might be minor enough that you're able to compensate the lean condition it's causing thru carb adjustments, it's only going to deteriorate over time risking a lot of engine damage. :yikes:
Red Pinger said:Eh.... six pounds for one minute or more doesn't sound too good.
Read this - http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=506699
It could still be your seal.
Jeromeo said:alright here we go. Kawasaki's I believe are the only bike that needs to have the cases split in order to change the crank seals otherwise most other bike you can use the sheet metal screw technique and pull it out. Do you have a manual?? it says it right there in the manual how to do it. If you don't have a manual go buy one. They'll save you alot of time and grief. Now you say your crank seal needs to be replaced?? Are you losing tranny oil at all?? A tell tale sign that you are needing to replace the crank seal is when you lose tranny oil every time you ride. Hope this helps you.
adam728 said:I'm just wondering how 1200 rpm is a high idle? What are you wanting it to idle at?
Since I run a rekluse I keep the idle bumped up, I run 2500-2800 rpm in neutral. My bike sounds like it is about to die out if it gets to the 1200 rpm area.
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