It will probably take longer to read this than to do the install. If you do this you will have way more functions at your fingertips than the prehistoric factory odometer provides.
Items required:
-Functional stock "distance sensor" on front wheel: see * below
-Bicycle computer (any type that is hard wired to a magnetic reed switch - most are, including Trail Tech a.k.a. Topeak Panoram)
-Bullet connectors: 14-16 gauge, one male, one female
-Zip ties
Disconnect factory computer and
a) send to Smithsonian
b) place in trash, or
c) list on e-bay
Mount bicycle computer to handlebar or stock location. I have a small Trek model which I placed on the left side of the handlebar, just inside the grip for easy thumb access. I had to move the kill switch further inboard to do this. Route the bicycle computer wire over to the end of the cable leading
out of the stock distance sensor (this end will be located on the section of the right fork between the triple clamps). Cut the bicycle computer wire down to the right length. Note that doing so will result in severing the dongle from the end of the bicycle computer wire. Don't worry, it's painless. You can pitch the dongle too, Lorena Bobbit style. Seperate the two conductors of the bicycle computer wire for a few inches to give some room to work with. Strip about 3/8" from each conductor. Crimp or solder the bullet connectors to the ends of the bicycle computer wire. These wires are pretty thin, so I doubled the inner wire back over the insulation before crimping it, in order to better fill the 14 gauge connector crimp area. Seal the area between the between the bicycle computer wires and bullet connectors with RTV silicone. Plug the newly crimped connctors into the bullet connectors on the cable leading out of the stock stock distance sensor (polarity does not matter). Take a circumferential measurement of your front wheel. The easiest way is to find a smooth flat surface such as concrete or asphalt, then roll your bike until the valve stem is perpendicular to the ground. Mark this spot, and roll the bike in a straight line until the wheel has rotated one full turn and the valve stem is perpendicular to the ground again. Mark this spot and measure the distance between the two marks. Convert inches to Canadian units (1 in = 2.54 cm), and enter this value into your computer per the computer's instructions. Ride.
Note: Maximum Speed is an evil function :p
* "Distance sensor" refers to Kawasaki P/N 11021-xxxx "CASE-ASSY,DISTANCE SENSOR". This part is shown for all 1983 to 1988 KDX 200's, but I have a 1988 model so I can't vouch for other years. The guts of this part are a magnetic reed switch embedded in Kawasaki rubber cement, and a magnet set in a piece of plastic that rotates with the front wheel. Lubricate the brass bushing set in this piece of plastic every time you have the front wheel off.
Items required:
-Functional stock "distance sensor" on front wheel: see * below
-Bicycle computer (any type that is hard wired to a magnetic reed switch - most are, including Trail Tech a.k.a. Topeak Panoram)
-Bullet connectors: 14-16 gauge, one male, one female
-Zip ties
Disconnect factory computer and
a) send to Smithsonian
b) place in trash, or
c) list on e-bay
Mount bicycle computer to handlebar or stock location. I have a small Trek model which I placed on the left side of the handlebar, just inside the grip for easy thumb access. I had to move the kill switch further inboard to do this. Route the bicycle computer wire over to the end of the cable leading
out of the stock distance sensor (this end will be located on the section of the right fork between the triple clamps). Cut the bicycle computer wire down to the right length. Note that doing so will result in severing the dongle from the end of the bicycle computer wire. Don't worry, it's painless. You can pitch the dongle too, Lorena Bobbit style. Seperate the two conductors of the bicycle computer wire for a few inches to give some room to work with. Strip about 3/8" from each conductor. Crimp or solder the bullet connectors to the ends of the bicycle computer wire. These wires are pretty thin, so I doubled the inner wire back over the insulation before crimping it, in order to better fill the 14 gauge connector crimp area. Seal the area between the between the bicycle computer wires and bullet connectors with RTV silicone. Plug the newly crimped connctors into the bullet connectors on the cable leading out of the stock stock distance sensor (polarity does not matter). Take a circumferential measurement of your front wheel. The easiest way is to find a smooth flat surface such as concrete or asphalt, then roll your bike until the valve stem is perpendicular to the ground. Mark this spot, and roll the bike in a straight line until the wheel has rotated one full turn and the valve stem is perpendicular to the ground again. Mark this spot and measure the distance between the two marks. Convert inches to Canadian units (1 in = 2.54 cm), and enter this value into your computer per the computer's instructions. Ride.
Note: Maximum Speed is an evil function :p
* "Distance sensor" refers to Kawasaki P/N 11021-xxxx "CASE-ASSY,DISTANCE SENSOR". This part is shown for all 1983 to 1988 KDX 200's, but I have a 1988 model so I can't vouch for other years. The guts of this part are a magnetic reed switch embedded in Kawasaki rubber cement, and a magnet set in a piece of plastic that rotates with the front wheel. Lubricate the brass bushing set in this piece of plastic every time you have the front wheel off.
