Hey Nickyd,
Thanks much for the reply, I am at my wits end here.
I stripped the carb down again last night, and this time I got carbparts on the phone and they gave me the correct specs, but the problem was that I have a PJ38, and they said from the rim of the carb to the TOP of the entire float should be exactly 16mm. Well, in my case, the float that is in this carburetor maxed out at 24mm, and that is completely depressed by pressure of my hand against the top of the bowl, hardly the state for proper measurement. He said I had the wrong float, could this be possible? How can someone get the wrong float and everything seem fit and move ok?
OK, so anyway, instead of measuring it this time, I eyeballed it, carefully tilted the carb on it's side until the float tang just contacted the float valve, not pushing the plunger in, and adjusted it until the float was at it's highest without the fuel level going over the overflow nozzle. I checked all of the other settings on the carb, and they looked just fine, blew out all of the air passages, etc. I have rebuilt hundreds of carbs, albeit, they have been automobile carbs, but I completely understand their functionality.
Here are the default specs as compared to my specs:
PJ38:
Stock/ Mine:
needle- 1468N or DGJ/ 1370N or CGL (leaner)
Main- 168/ 170 (richer)
slow- 62/ 55 (leaner)
slide valve- 6/ unknown
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At this point after kicking it a few times, I pull out the plug, and again, it is cold fouled/washed out. I already replaced the CDI box and it didn't help the spark any. Oh, and BTW, I also remove the pipe after this too, and it is a little wet with raw fuel too, not much, but enough to know it is not igniting in the cylinder.
So we know I have rebuilt the engine, I have repacked the silencer, and checked out the pipe, replaced the pipe gasket at the cylinder, along with the exhaust springs, rebuilt the carb, tested the reed valves, new air filter (tried starting it with and without it on), fuel mixture is 93 octane 32:1 synthetic as recommended by my dealer.
As for the needle issues, what they were saying is that the needle wallowed out the body where the main jst seats, but, like you said, that should have no effect on idle.
Now, when I say that I have spark, I have a PVL aftermarket ignition. When I pull out the plug and kick it over, it sparks 70-80% of the strokes. I spoke to Penton Imports (they import the PVL ignition from Germany) and they said that this is normal, is this true? If you pull out your plug, and kick it over do you see spark every stroke? I have a bad feeling about this. That is also why I went ahead on my dealers advice and bought a new CDI box for it, but like I said before, no good. What about the stator, has anyone seen a bad stator act this way? I am thinking about sending it in again and having it tested, again. It has impedence(resistance) within limits, but I keep wondering, what does the spark look like INSIDE the cylinder?
Anyhow, you guys have no idea how much I appreciate your input on this. Keep feeding me ideas, please, NickyD, captain obvious isn't too obvious for the likes of me, I am willing to listen to the smallest of recommendations, as long as they don't require money without thought, like parts replacing.....
Anyhow, please guys keep giving me advice, I am desperate!
Jim