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Dirt Bike Discussions By Brand
Canadian Daves JustKDX
91 KDX 250 back together
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[QUOTE="dirt bike dave, post: 1256424, member: 18302"] The problem with additional pre-load is it makes the fork more resistant to initial movement. If you ride trails with lots of rocks and roots, this is not good on a stock valved KDX250 front end. It will help the front end ride higher, but the bike is already slow steering. Better to have stiffer springs and less preload, IMO. If your budget does not permit new fork springs, you can make your old ones stiffer by cutting off a few coils. Let's say you have 40 coils per spring now. If you remove 2 your spring will be about 5% stiffer. Don't cut off too much or you will get coil bind! Measure the gap between two coils and multiply this by the number of gaps. Say 8mm x 40 gaps = 320 mm. If your fork has 300 mm of travel and you remove 2 gaps of 8mm each, your spring could compress as small as 304mm, so you would not have coil bind. These are ball park figures used to illustrate the point - your travel and springs may differ. Some fork basics are as follows: Oil weight mainly effects rebound damping (heavier oil = slower rebound). With 5w, you are probably using the right oil. Oil level has a big effect on bottoming resistance and fork stiffness in the last part of your travel. If you are bottoming too easily, raise the oil level. If you never bottom and the forks are stiff at the last part of the travel, lower oil level. [/QUOTE]
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Dirt Bike Discussions By Brand
Canadian Daves JustKDX
91 KDX 250 back together
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