travism

Member
Aug 24, 2010
2
0
this will be the first one that ive done. this will only be used as a snow bike with a timersled setup on it. the way you ride a snowbike is pinned most of the time. you really want max power on top would be nice to have some low end grunt aswell

my question is witch ports should i bore out. and how much any info will help with this build ill post some pics after i get done with the port job.
 

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wake_rider

Member
Feb 21, 2007
481
2
Porting rarely gives any more power without precise machining and a wealth of knowledge. I would look into other options for trying to find more power, but if you do decide that this is the direction to go, I'd send it off to someone who really knows what they're doing. Eric Gorr comes to mind...
 

Rich Rohrich

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helio lucas

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Jun 20, 2007
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since i own this book i only want to add one thing:
from my experience with ktm cylinders they have very poor matched transfer ports. actually both of my ktm360 cylinders have at least a mismatch of 1mm between right and left on some ports. i would begin there :cool:
 

plynn41

Member
Jun 8, 2009
107
1
I've got a bad feeling about this... This is the poster's first post I see.

That's an awfully special engine you're about to start grinding on friend. I'd leave it alone.
 

_JOE_

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May 10, 2007
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I think what these kind fellas are trying to say is that someone with the ability to properly port this type of engine would most likely not be asking for directions on a forum......especially in thier first few posts. They are trying to save you time and money by advising you to send it out to someone with the proper tooling and knowledge. Best of luck to you!
 

Rich Rohrich

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travism said:
spare bike
i was just looking for info if you dont have any to give then dont post

From your post it's obvious to even the most casual observer you don't understand much about porting or even how two-strokes work. People have been impressively kind in their responses to your post.

It's fair to assume based on your attitude that people's willingness to guide you in the right direction is likely exhausted. I'm sure that approach will take you far in life. :coocoo:
 

Pete Payne

MX-Tech Suspension Agent
Nov 3, 2000
933
38
First thing to do is degree the engine to se where the timing of each port window is . Also cc the head as well as the trapped volume of the assembled engine.

Then you may be able to see a flaw or 2.

remember -- measure twice (at least) and cut once !!!
 

OriginalRider

Member
Nov 23, 2008
124
0
Porting SOME people say is equal to a big bore kit but in your case you already have a big bore and trying to port it is just insane to me but i would probably be doing the same thing.I ported and polished my CR250 cylinder the other day.Remember one thing porting is not about making the ports bigger its about making them smoother!!.If porting is not done right it could be critical!!.Take your time following each port.I did all the ports on mine.i didn't go insane i just did very mild porting and polishing.Do very lightly see how its coming out then go from there i spent about 1 hours porting mine making sure everything was the one i wanted it.I was thinking about posting pics but of course my camera wasn't working.BTW i also did my crank case,and head.I haven't start it but for some reason it feels as if i have more compression.Or maybe im just very tried hoped this helped you!
 

_JOE_

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May 10, 2007
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OriginalRider said:
Porting SOME people say is equal to a big bore kit but in your case you already have a big bore and trying to port it is just insane to me but i would probably be doing the same thing.I ported and polished my CR250 cylinder the other day.Remember one thing porting is not about making the ports bigger its about making them smoother!!.If porting is not done right it could be critical!!.Take your time following each port.I did all the ports on mine.i didn't go insane i just did very mild porting and polishing.Do very lightly see how its coming out then go from there i spent about 1 hours porting mine making sure everything was the one i wanted it.I was thinking about posting pics but of course my camera wasn't working.BTW i also did my crank case,and head.I haven't start it but for some reason it feels as if i have more compression.Or maybe im just very tried hoped this helped you!


There's a reason the cylinder had texture to the ports walls. Smoothing things out doesn't make it better.
 

whenfoxforks-ruled

Old MX Racer
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Oct 19, 2006
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Properly finished, the port walls appear as ruff as the original casting. Well, closer than a mirror anyways! I am pretty sure they get multi textured. But, there goes the terrible hit off bottom, from brap, to buwharap. And the case mod, that just got REAL expensive to replace! Increasing the size of the intake, transfers and exhaust, just a lost cause, scrap metal. The nicest I have heard this referred to is bar-room mechanics, no proven science. And yet there is a proven method and science to back it up. Vintage Bob
 

Rich Rohrich

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whenfoxforks-ruled

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That is an awesome thread. Has there been a change, or did I read it wrong about the base of cylinder transfer area, to case transition:There is a reason for the step? Aside from the:If you remove metal, you have to put it back some where issue, I would swear I got yelled at for making it smooth.
 
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