94 KX250 - What Oil? Klotz R50?

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Studboy

Thinks he can ride

Dec 2, 2001

1,818

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• Jan 3, 2002

• #1

I have a 94 KX250, I have been running Klotz R50 since the current rebuild (Super M for the breakin period). I mix 40:1 w/ 91 Octane Premium, I love the smell of this oil and haven't had any problems, no fouled plugs, and it doesn't smoke very much. However, I have heard plenty of horror storys about people experiencing a lot of carbon and rust with this oil? What is your experience with it?
I usually ride medium trail speed, where I usually don't rev it that hard, But sometimes I really rev it a lot (racing buddys, sand, etc.) and that is where I feel I need the extra protection.

Your input and advice would be greatly appreciated!
-Studboy-

 

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dix

Member

Nov 24, 2001

166

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• Jan 6, 2002

• #2

I too love the smell Klotz leaves in the air. I ran r-50 this past summer, but found at the end of the season some massive carbon build-up, and even some light surface rust on the crank. I am definatly switching oils fo this year. I was not pleased, to say the least to see the lack of rust protection, and my bike is always inside the garage and more than properly maintained. I'm not sure though what oil I'm going to try next. Considering Yamalube. Gorr claims that this runs cleaner!

 

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Jody Palmer

Member

Dec 24, 2001

17

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• Jan 7, 2002

• #3

Klotz Oil

The next time you go in to buy some oil pick up a bottle of pure Klotz Be-NOL.I use it in everything I own.It handles extreme condtions.You cannot use it when it's under 35 dgs,When it's cold out use Klotz Super-Techniplate with 20% castor oil.Klotz made a believer out of me after a 40 mile H/S race without any coolant in my 1990 yz 250.I noticed it (radiator) leaking on the starting line,to far from home to pull it off the line, I went for it.I finished 5th with a red hot engine.I was a little worried after the race what damage I had done.That week we took the engine apart to look for any wear,piston,rings,cyl.Everything was OK.(Klotz forever!!)32:1/93 octane.

 

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Studboy

Thinks he can ride

Dec 2, 2001

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• Jan 7, 2002

• Thread starter
• #4

Hmmmm.....it seems I am getting mixed results on this one? One guy swears buy it, another's crank rusted. I'm confused!!!

 

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Jody Palmer

Member

Dec 24, 2001

17

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• Jan 7, 2002

• #5

Klotz Oil

I have never seen rust on any internal part of my bike. I have been using Be-Nol for three years in all my bikes. And other than having to clean out the power valves on a few bikes I haven't had any problems. It's the bomb! I ride a lot of mountains and subject my bikes to extreme heat and rev(Klotz forever)! I have never used the other blend of Klotz. Maybe you need to switch?

 

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dix

Member

Nov 24, 2001

166

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• Jan 7, 2002

• #6

Never said that I ran the benol, but rather the R50, which is a synthetic. I have heard good things about the Benol, but I wouldn't recommend the R50, but that's based on my own personal experience. bwalker can vouch for me, as he got to see the inside of my motor when I tore it down for a rebuild. And no, it was not exposed to any elements that would speed the corrosion.

 

bwalker

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Jan 10, 2000

839

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• Jan 7, 2002

• #7

Dix is right. Besides the rust the level of cleanliness wasnt as good as some of the others I have seen.

 

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CRguyStan

Member

Dec 10, 2001

154

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• Jan 7, 2002

• #8

I used to run only Klotz Be-nol but switched to R-50 to prevent cold weather separation and was told that the synthetic burns much leaner. I haven't had much excessive carbon buildup and swore by Be Nol while racing karts. I do see that my engine is cleaner on top end with klotz compared to when I ran HP-2. I never had any bottom end problems (yet) with rust, but maybe that's because it stays in a cold shed and has no temp differance for condensation to cause the moisture down below.

 

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Jody Palmer

Member

Dec 24, 2001

17

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• Jan 7, 2002

• #9

Klotz Oil

Check out www.Klotzlube.com It gives all specs on lubes.I guess after all the h&%l I have put my bikes through when the name Klotz comes up I jump on the Be-NOl bandwagon.(I'm still looking for a whole in my auto engine to pour a pint in. LOL.)

 

Last edited: Jan 7, 2002

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Studboy

Thinks he can ride

Dec 2, 2001

1,818

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• Jan 7, 2002

• Thread starter
• #10

BeNol? If I'm correct isn't that supposed to create MORE carbon than R50? I also start and ride my bike for short periods of time in the winter (UTAH) when it is 0-30 degrees....Thanks for the input guys however.

 

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F3504X4

Member

Nov 7, 2001

39

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• Jan 8, 2002

• #11

Amsoil race 2000 at 40:1 runs awesome.:D

 

bwalker

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Jan 10, 2000

839

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• Jan 8, 2002

• #12

Be-nol

IMO there are many products that will outperform Be-nol in a dirt bike app. Be-nol and castor oils in general burn dirtier, phase seperate easier, have low temp issues, are harder to tune( at least thats what the cart guys say), foul plugs and PV systems more frequently and generaly make a spode driven dirtbike a mess internaly. Many tuners that reccomend their use are knowledgable about these side effects and are willing to forgo them for the castors superior film strength/high temp lubrcating ability. Maxima has a article on their website that outlines some of the points I have made. It is located under lube tips.BTW I love the smell of castorI just dont like dealing with the issues that are associated with it.

 

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yardpro

Gone Bye-Bye

Oct 15, 2001

529

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• Jan 8, 2002

• #13

the problem i have had with klotz is the massive goo buildup. generally if i want to try a new brand of oil i make the switch when i rebuild. that way i can compare it with the previous oil in a controilled manner ( I also keep notes , guess it's the science background). after a top end using klotz i could pick up the pv by just pressing on it with my finger. it would stick to my finger!!! what makes that more depressing is that it was a honda 250 pv. those things are big and heavy. I will never use klotz again. mx2t is my current oil. I have also had very good experiences with honda hp2.