96' rm125 several problems

[Daniel Deshotels]

When I start the bike it idles o.k. after riding it for a bit it no longer idles, I have to open the throttle a bit to start it.

My second problem is when I shift into gear it lurches forward and dies if I don't have it revving high enough. Is this from the clutch dragging? It lurches a little bit when I shift at higher RPM but it does not move and die.

 

[sick 96 250]

the idle and a little gas to start it is normal. I had the same prob on my 96 rm250 with the clutch dragging when pulled in. I took the clutch out and sanded the plates very little and changed the gear oil. I now use ATF type F and it solved the problem for a good amount of time. Now i put a new clutch in and everything is fine. As far as i owning several RM's they all had this drag problem a little bit. Check the plates and the basket and see how they look. Shouldn't be anything to serious

 

[darringer]

The clutch dragging is probably a notched clutch basket. I had a 99rm125 and the basket would notch with even the slightest abuse. The idle problem is from a rich pilot circuit. Try a smaller pilot jet. They tend to be very rich from the factory at idle.

 

[smahala1286]

sorry but can someone explain how a notched clutch basket causes clutch dragging. I just dont see how that works

 

[sick 96 250]

this may be kind of a dumb question, but when was the last time you changed your gear oil? What kind are you running. My buddies 95 rm125 needed new oil bad when we put it in it was fine again. We both use ATF type F. I have used gear saver, clutch saver and numorous types of oil but the ATF works the best for my bike and it is extremely cheap. That may be all your problem is.

 

[darringer]

When I had my 99rm125, I used the Honda gear oil (red bottle), and that worked very well. For the clutch to disengage, the clutch plates need to spread apart slightly so they will slip. When the basket is notched, the plates tend to stick together, never fully releasing, causing the clutch to grab and chatter. Dirty oil can cause problems, especially notchy shifting.

 

[smahala1286]

on a notched basket can you grind the notches down to make it smoother to get a little more life out of your basket or would that give to much slack in the plates and cause them to slam into the basket fingers

 

[darringer]

You can file the notches down if they are small enough. Unfortunately, there will be more slack for the plates to re-groove the basket. It is only a temporary fix, as the basket will groove again even faster, since there is more slack. Draw a file across the basket in one direction to carefully remove the notches.

 

[biglou]

Could the clutch be out of adjustment slightly? I also notice that if a bike isn't fully warmed up it will tend to stall when put into gear the first time.

As for the idle, you can play with the jetting like mentioned, try adjusting the idle up, air screw, etc. You'll want to make all adjustments with the bike fully warmed up since that is where you want it to idle.

 

[skillzman1]

this is just a thought but..being a little older...what about freeplay in the throtlle cable..and the clutch cable as well?

 

[therocket]

clutch drag, can't fix

96 suz 125 No marks on basket--installed a billet. Very small marks on innner hub now after a few hours Stock suz clutch plates. When installed new, still clutch drag. Now after a few hours quite bad ie. stalls when put in gear, at least when cold. any ideas?

tks

 

[sick 96 250]

are you sure your clutch play is set correctly, you may even need a new clutch cable due to the year of the bike and if it was ever replaced. They tend to stretch and will make it a world of trouble to get your clutch you work correctly. I have heard of taking fine grit sand paper and scratching the surface of the plates a little and it solves the problem sometimes. Sounds more of an adjustment problem. When was the last time you changed the gear oil???

 

[darringer]

When I had my 99rm125, I remember using an MSR adjustable clutch perch. It's the one that has 3 different positions to attach the clutch cable. I attached it to the position that gave the most cable pull. It made the clutch a little harder to pull in, but the added pull would let my clutch release completely. My clutch was always grabby on that bike, even though all clutch components were like new.

 

[therocket]

sux.96 dragging clutch problems: Oil changed often, and tried mc gear lube. Cable idea is a good one, and I will try, it is the orignal cable. Re: sanding the plates lightly--can't figure out how that would help a dragging clutch, thought that was for slipping clutch. Am I wrong? Went through Eric Gorrs decision tree, well I didn't measure warpage yet, and I am still stumpted. I am missing something I think.

 

[reelrazor]

Sometimes enough wear happens in the clutch pushrod and actuator to cause what you are experiencing. A new cable would be my first fix though.

 

[therocket]

re: dragging clutch.. 96 rm 125. I filed small marks inner hub, measured everything-all spec., slightly sanded plates. Now much better--still drags a little. Cable adjusted properly, and feels smooth. Thanks for help