A few questions if you can spare some time...

[marcv125]

Well first of all i was thinking of selling my bike but i decided not to. I will do some maintenance work on my bike and i just have a few questions. Thx

1) What is the best intermediate tire for eastern tracks? Front and rear tire.

2) i need a chain/spocket change so i was wondering what you guys suggest for long lasting and high quality parts for that?

3) Also with the sprocket. i have an fmf pipe/silencer and i checked their website and they say to make my rear sprocket a 50 instead of a 49, but on my bike i have a 48 tooth rear? I heard that when you buy a chain and you change your sprocket size your chain lenght will be a different size? Should it be longer or shorter? I have 111 links on my stock chain.
Once again thx and sorry for all of the Q's

 

[Danman]

If you add more teeth you need to add more links. I'm not sure of the number of links to the number or teeth. I would say proably about to per tooth. IF you add only one tooth you might keep the same number of links, but you would have to move you rear wheel in shorten you wheelbase a bit. If you change to less teeth on sprokets you will need to shorten you chain or move you rear wheel back making you wheelbase longer. Changing the gearing effects the engine. I will make it have more power in the lower RPM range or higher RPM range depending how you change the gearing. You should change both your sprokets (front and rear) and chain together. Just changing one or the other will make the other componets wear out faster.

As for the duriblity. I think you get what you pay for. The stainless steal sprokets are expensive, but where better. The alumimum are light and mid priced, but wear fast. The steal are the heavy and the least expsenive and seem to wear O.K.

As for chains I personaly I'd go with X-ring type (I don't ride MX). I've understand that MX'er don't link and x-ring, but preferrer a regualer non-o-ring type becuase they say the X-ring has more friction causing less power. I don't know what works best in that area. I would think you would proably get better life from a more known brand like DID or one of the other big ones. They make different flavers of chains in different price ranges claming that the more expensive ones are better. I would just get whats within your budget.

 

[marcv125]

danman thx for the help. yeah i will be going from a 48 to a 50 so you would say to add about 4 links? Ive been looking at sidewinder stainless steel sprockets? Have you heard of them? are the good? thx

 

[yam 3]

Get too many links, you v\can alwaws grind the pin off to make it whatever length you want. Sometimes chains bought in "bulk" lengths are cheaper also.
Measure twice cut once.

 

[marcv125]

yeah i am going to go with a renthal o-ring chain w/ 114 links. You think this would be enough right? Also what tires do you suggest. Any brand it doesn't matter to me. I want a intermediate to hard tire. I was looking at dunlop D756 are they a good combo for front and rear?

 

[yam 3]

I use dunlop 739's with good results. They wear well and hook up decent in hard to intermediate terrain.

 

[Buzz Bomb]

If you are looking for long lasting sprockets and chains, get an RK or DID X-ring chain. I have steel sprockets on my CR250 with an X-ring chain, and it hasn't stretched since I bought the bike. I put the new chain on so I could save the stock sprockets before the stock chain wore them out. Steel sprockets are cheaper than aluminum and last longer. I wouldn't get the Renthal chain just because it costs more than RK or DID, but won't give any more performance. For sprockets, Sunstar steels are great. As for chain length, I would get two more links over stock if you're adding one tooth to the rear.

 

[marcv125]

Thx for the advice. About the rear sprocket i will be adding to teeth so should i get 4 more links than stock?

 

[marcv125]

well here is what i did i went with all renthal sprockets/chain. I went with a 50 tooth rear instead of a 48 and a 114 link o-ring chain instead of a 112 regular chain...Sounds good to me what about you?

 

[roostinbe]

I would go with sidewinder laser cut stainless steel sprockets if you want them to last a long time, but you will give up a little performance to aluminum ones like AFAM or SunStar. As far as tires go, Maxxis makes good tires, and seels them for really cheap, I like their M6001 rear tire, and the Maxxcross IT front tire. (both intermediate terrain)

 

[Okiewan]

I would go with sidewinder laser cut stainless steel sprockets if you want them to last a long time, but you will give up a little performance to aluminum ones like AFAM or SunStar.

Why exactly is that?

 

[Jaybird]

Weight:D

 

[Casper250]

I would go with any good quality o-ring chain and some aluminum renthals. Just remember, it's the chain that wears the sprockets from stretching. I had rethal sprockets with a DID 520ert non o-ring chain and replaced it with the same set up but with an O-ring DID and my sprockets have far less wear on them even a full season one them. I can definatly notice the difference bacause i only have to adjust the slack in the chain every 10-15 rides where the non o-ring i was adjusting almost every ride.

 

[marcv125]

yup casper i ordered all renthal sprockets and a o-ring chain. I have them in my room right now i just need to wait for a new chain buffer and i will be able to put them on. they look very nice also. :)

 

[roostinbe]

Okie- I believe that it is because aluminum is more rigid than steel, I have only made the switch once, and then I stayed with aluminum, but I did notice a more distinct snap in drive.

 

[bruce j]

Jaybird's right. Less weight in the drivetrain makes snappier power. Why? Heavier parts take more power to turn them. Lighter parts leave more power left over for acceleration .

 

[Rich Rohrich]

Originally posted by roostinbe
Okie- I believe that it is because aluminum is more rigid than steel, I have only made the switch once, and then I stayed with aluminum, but I did notice a more distinct snap in drive.

It was all in your mind. There is no difference in performance between a steel and an aluminum sprocket given the same type of chain.

 

[john stu]

weight

i removed the valve stem cap for the tube in the rear tire and my bike seems much snappier now i must have gained at least 5,maybe 10 horsepower!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


LOL

 

[bruce j]

Of course you're not going to gain horsepower by removing weight from the rear wheel. BUT, you CAN change the performance, just as you can change the performance by altering flywheel weight. Will there be a big difference between a steel sprocket and an aluminum one? No, there will not. Will it be feelable? I'm not sure, I've never done a back to back comparison test. Whether you can feel it or not, though, a difference WILL exist. There will also be a difference in braking, and in suspension action. These are performance aspects, too .

Mr. Stu, I suggest you put your valve cap back on before your stem fills with dirt, and all your (hot) air leaks out.

Rich, if you disagree with me, I would love to hear why. I thought this was pretty well accepted theory, but I am willing to learn something new.

Regards, Bruce

 

[Jaybird]

The difference in rigidity is hogwash. There is validity in the difference in the weight. Rich knows this. :)

 

[roostinbe]

I stand corrected... I suppose it could also have been because I had a new chain. It was right after I bought one of my older bikes, and the drive system was pretty worn out. I have kept it fresh ever since then, so I guess that explains the misconception. - sorry:think

 

[bruce j]

Hey, Roostinbe, nothing to apologize for, your posts were sincere and helpful. If the tone of my reply seemed critical toward you, then I'm the one who is sorry. You can't learn if you don't make mistakes, and nobody knows so much that they'll never make a mistake or can't learn something new. God knows, I screw up all the time. :) .

BTW, I don't think Rich had read my complete post when he answered, as I was editing it at the time. I'm pretty sure he would agree that, in regards to flywheel effect and reduced unsprung weight, there is a performance difference between aluminum and steel sprockets, although he may feel the difference is not significant. Rich?

 

[Jeepboy]

I prefer a non-oring chain for mx applications. You can clean them with a power washer and just adjust them to account for streching. I also prefer aluminum rear sprockets for the less unsprung weight. I am still using the stock honda chain and sprockets and I ride sand tracks mostly abouit 8 times/month. The stock chain has streched alot, but is still within the service limit and the sprockets have worn some, but are not bad. I figure if the stock chain has lasted over a year than a quality non-oring chain should last 2 seasons which is longer than most of the other service parts.

 

[motometal]

Jeepboy, you may be correct about chains,
as long as you have the time, and enjoy constantly messing with your chain...

personally I would rather spend more time riding or doing something else rather than messing with a low-tech chain.

I think it is pretty safe to say any improvement in laptimes due to more practice would FAR EXCEED any loss in horsepower loss due to the seals on an o-ring chain.

as far as different weight sprockets, let's not forget the gyroscopic effects...

 

[marcv125]

Im done!!

I just put on my renthal sprockets and renthal r-3 o-rng chain. Wasn't to hard to put on. The only problem i saw was that the chain rubs on the chain guide. Not a big problem. The chain will wear the guide down in a couple of rides. It all looks very nice too!!