Here is a little blurb I stole from AFM744 at Holeshot ( I hope he doesn't mind ): it's VERY important to correctly use the crank lock bolt to avoid the auto-decompression from throwing off your settings. Be sure you're on TDC between compression and power stroke. Pull magneto cover, line up the trailing edge of the magneto firing block with the top edge of pickup, THEN pull lock bolt and reinsert sans-washer by hand. Soda straws and zipties don't belong in your spark plug hole. You should feel the bolt center in the notch in the crank, and it should NOT turn at all in either direction. I've seen lots of posts where people just screw this in and then turn the crank til it stops, this is bad.
Again, second time you do the valves you won't be learning it. No, there's
simply no way to do it the right way w/o changing the oil
My explanation is different, but achieves the same result.
Intake: .004, exhaust .006
I went 500 miles my first setting, and since I have another 500 on my bike now and have to change the water pump seals anyway, it is time again. You can easily tell when it is ready. The bike gets hard to start.
Here is my start to finish: Start with a clean bike
Remove seat/tank
Remove radiators
Clean everything in and around open frame.
Blow compressed air into the plug clearing port on rt side of engine after pulling the plug cap off.
I use a LONG soda straw in the cylinder to fully determine TDC.
You need to remove your skid plate if you have one.
There is a large allen head bolt on the lower rt hand side of the motor.
This the crankshaft locking bolt that is supposed to lock the crank at TDC.
Take out the bolt, remove the copper washer. screw the bolt back in, but not all the way in --> IMPORTANT!!
Put the bike in 6th gear, and use the rear tire to rotate the crank/piston. Once you think you have found TDC by the straw and/or the flywheel marks (I did not remove my side cover to adjust my valves (find TDC), I might next time).Remember intake, compression, power, exhaust. TDC is at the top of the compression stroke.
To find TDC the intake valves should open (springs will be compressed) then slightly after that is TDC. When you get to the point where the intake valves open and then begin to close, tighten the crank bolt in by hand to not tighten any more than that.
Rock the engine a little bit back and forth LIGHTLY and you should feel the crank bolt engage, so to speak.
If you decide to remove the side cover, verify the flywheel to the timing mark.
The feeler gauge goes under the knob looking thing that sits on top of the valve stem. Once again intake .004, exhaust.006.
You will either need to buy the angled gauges or bend your existing ones to a 45 degree angle. Remember when tightening for clearance you should feel a definite drag on the gauge.
Reverse sequence to pin 'er back up.