aftermarket pipe survey

mr. moderator:

See how this works? Search functions are disabled, so registered users ask questions like this.

Sledman's questions cover a LOT of area...and they've been covered over and over and.......

Sledman: Pay $12.

http://dirtrider.net/forums3/announcement.php?s=&forumid=6

Spend some time searching for pertinent keywords, and a lot MORE time reading what has already been posted. You'll find what you need to know.

BTW...how many 'years' and 'sizes' of kdx do you have? You'll get a better response with a specific question.

Post '95 kdxs have two fmf choices, -30/-35 rev/torque. Your choice considering application for the 200, more likely a -30 for the 220's overall improvement unless you really want stump pulling bottom end, then the -35. Both pipes the same for both 'sizes' of kdx (H model).

You'll have to excuse him, he's very low on tact. As for me an '01 220 with airbox mods first, then race gas second, then a FMF Gnarly Torque and a TC2. Wooo weeee, that sure is fun. Mainly woods riding with everything from mud, to loam, to hardpack, and to rocks. Alt is from 2000' to 4500' approx. Hope this helps you.

Originally posted by canyncarvr
mr. moderator:

See how this works? Search functions are disabled, so registered users ask questions like this.

Click to expand...

Evidently enough registered-only people whined and Okie turned back on the search function for everyone. It was short-lived...

Greedy Okie! Screwed me out of $12.

RJ: OK...I excuse him...but only cuz you asked ;)

sled: Specifics help. Coming from the 4-stroke side, you probably are used to pretty solid bottom-end pull, and not too much in the way of screaming top-end?

To start with, have a good idea of the direction you want to go and you'll have a lot better chance of getting there. For example, if you are indeed looking for 4-stroke like pull on the bottom, a KG-35 FmF will likely suit you better than an all-round or hi-end pipe.

A DeltaForceII reed cage with tension set to low will serve you far better than any aftermarket reed on the stock cage, or a boyesen radvalve.

The basic modifications as noted on CDave's site:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net

will go a long way toward getting your bike set up well.

No modification you do is going to reach its full potential if your jetting isn't attended to. Riding at the elevations you list, rejetting will be particularly important. CDave's site will get you on the right track with that, too. The power delivery of your bike will change depending on jetting regardless of which pipe you choose.

Again..it all depends on the overall effect you're after.

All the speed and power you can get isn't worth much if your suspension can't handle the trail. Towit:

Set your sag.
Set your clickers.
Respring your forks (unless you weight about 150# with your gear).

Might still be time to save yourself some grief in the lubrication area, too. Take your suspension (unitrack/swingarm/steering stem) apart and grease it.

Braahp: :) Okie should'a stuck to his guns, though. He's right.

That helps get an answer to your question even better.

I have both the -30 and the -35 FmF pipes. No way the -30 compares to the bottom end I get with the -35. I use the two for completely different riding applications. If I had to stick with just one, I'd choose the -35. Keep in mind that's on a 200, though. The 220 is a lot stronger to start with on the bottom due to it's 33mm carb and port timing.

I haven't used a PC or DG pipe. A common complaint of FmF is 'fit & finish' problems. Your brand new FmF pipe may be rusted, have holes in the welds AND not fit for diddle.

I've read nothing but positive reports on PCs fit.

A pipe will be tuned for best result in one part of the rpm range or the other. I think a pipe that 'increases top end, without hurting bottom and midrange' isn't going to happen.

Do some searches on the site regarding pipes. You'll get plenty of responses, points of view.

Originally posted by Braahp
Greedy Okie! Screwed me out of $12.

Click to expand...

:)

Get the PC, you'll be glad you did! It increased my entire range but especially Low to middle. I was suprised at the slightly increased top end too! I love this pipe and I'm glad I didn't go through the FMF horror! :p

I bet the FMF and PC units are very similar in performance, and, are both better than stock.
If you are concerened about every last horsepower, get the RB carb mod (about $160) and get it ported in that order (IMO).

I think Oakie should allow a one week visit to the site per person before paid membership becomes mandatory.

I have to admit I was very, very impressed with my budds 02 200.
I rode it stock and thought it was going to need much more than jetting, and bolt on parts to make good power.
He did all of his mods at the same time, so I don't know what did what, but here are the parts he used; PC pipe (nice fit), FMF PCII (needed mods to fit correctly, also shortened a few inches), Boyeson Pro-series reeds (stock cage smoothed), air box mods, main jet, pilot jet, and needle all changed.
The power comes on smooth and pulls hard for a very long time, the useable power range has easily doubled and I wouldn't doubt if the HP was doubled too.
:yeehaw:

Flyinzuki,
What the heck you doing in here? Just KDX. Oh I forgot Suzuki is riding Kawasaki's coat tails for parts. Is there a forum for what jacks to use for foot pegs? ;) Are we going to see you guys at Paragon in the spring? Hope so. :)