I had problems setting my air screw on the carb. Never sure to turn in or turn out. Well, I found this article on the net and I thought I would share it with you all. Maybe this is second nature to some, but it helped me out a bunch. Here is a clip of the most important info.
"During the Nationals, I'm constantly changing the air screw position throughout the day, as weather conditions often change. A basic rule of thumb is that you want your air screw 1.5 to 2.5 turns out. Therefore, if your bike runs better at 1 turn out, it is a sign that you probably need a richer pilot jet. The 'bogs' can happen easy if you're lean off the bottom. Here's a quick way of checking this in the pits."
Step 1: Take your bike off the stand, start it and let it warm up, until you can feel heat in the radiators.
Step 2: Now that it's warmed up, make sure that your idle screw is adjusted so the motor stalls out slowly. Start by turning the idle screw in until the motor will idle, then back it out slowly until the motor stalls out.
Step 3: Get the bike running again and pin the throttle for a quick second before letting it die down to just above where it wants to stall out. Then, twist the throttle as fast as you can. If it's lean, it will "hiccup" or "bog" for a quick second before it revs out. If that happens, take a small flat blade and try to adjust the air screw so it revs out cleanly.
"This technique works well, but it isn't bullet proof. The easiest way to really get things dialed in is to play with jetting and carburetor settings on practice days so you know how to adjust the carb for different conditions. Once you know the characteristics of your bike, race day will be a breeze."
"During the Nationals, I'm constantly changing the air screw position throughout the day, as weather conditions often change. A basic rule of thumb is that you want your air screw 1.5 to 2.5 turns out. Therefore, if your bike runs better at 1 turn out, it is a sign that you probably need a richer pilot jet. The 'bogs' can happen easy if you're lean off the bottom. Here's a quick way of checking this in the pits."
Step 1: Take your bike off the stand, start it and let it warm up, until you can feel heat in the radiators.
Step 2: Now that it's warmed up, make sure that your idle screw is adjusted so the motor stalls out slowly. Start by turning the idle screw in until the motor will idle, then back it out slowly until the motor stalls out.
Step 3: Get the bike running again and pin the throttle for a quick second before letting it die down to just above where it wants to stall out. Then, twist the throttle as fast as you can. If it's lean, it will "hiccup" or "bog" for a quick second before it revs out. If that happens, take a small flat blade and try to adjust the air screw so it revs out cleanly.
"This technique works well, but it isn't bullet proof. The easiest way to really get things dialed in is to play with jetting and carburetor settings on practice days so you know how to adjust the carb for different conditions. Once you know the characteristics of your bike, race day will be a breeze."