The cover on the left (the one that sez KIPS) covers the 'Hemholtz Resonator'.
Interesting name for an emergency butt lighter, 'eh?
In front of that is a slotted cover that will expose the end of the rod that drives the assembly. Remove that cover and you can rotate the assembly manually to see (feel) how sticky or stuck it is. When rotated fully open and then let go, it should snap back into place...not oozily-sludge-move sorta.
With the pipe off, look inside the exhaust port to see that the main valve and the drums (sub-ports) to either side move as they should. There is a decent explanation of what moves when in the Kawi manual..which is a good deal to get.
Basically, at rest, the main port is 'down' and the sub-ports are 'closed' (which means OPEN to the resonator. Actuate the KIPS ..preferably NOT at this point by starting the bike and looking up the exhaust port ;) ..using the nut under the LH cover to see stuff move.
If something don't move, it's broke! The actuator rods for one of the sub-ports may be stripped. You can see this if it's happened without taking it all apart.
BUT..proper cleaning DOES require disassembly. I've heard tales of bikers spraying oven cleaner into the valve with it still on the bike!!..cuz they heard that oven cleaner was the thing to use.
OK...but with the KIPS OUT of the bike!
Take note!!..When taking the kips shaft off the assembly on the RH side of the bike..SUPPORT THE ACTUATING SHAFT!! There is a flat on the shaft for this purpose. AND...it's a LH thread nut!!
DON'T support it, and it WILL break later at the most inopportune time, causing maybe megadamage in the process. Clutches and reduction gears don't take kindly to bits of metal floating around where they shun't be!