Any wheel bearing replacement tips?

[SmokinRZ]

Does anyone have any tips on replacing rear wheel bearings. I was just going to drive them out with a punch while the new ones are in the freezer. Can I use a socket or something to drive the new ones in? Is it difficult without a press? Should I just run it up to a shop and have them press the new ones in?

Thanks,
Dean

 

[canyncarvr]

It's a snap. Don't worry about it.

You can use a drift/punch whatever to drive them out. Do it evenly, of course. A little from side to side.

And a socket works fine to put the new ones in.

Do clean the new ones and regrease them with the hi-quality grease of your choice before you put them in.

But then...before you put 'em in the freezer too!

Some prefer removing the inside seal...as the oem bearings are configured.

Some don't.

Take your pick I guess.

With the inside seal off it makes it easier to regrease them at a later time while they are still IN the hub. Gives the old grease someplace to go as you apply it from the outside.

Anyway, certainly not worth a trip anywhere to have someone else screw it up.....while you wait on 'em for a few days.

 

[dirt bike dave]

It might go easy like CC says, but they can be difficult.   On one of my old KDX's I had to take it to a shop to have them pressed out.    Wish I would have paid the money before I wasted hours trying to get that sucker to move.

 

[skipro3]

Use caution. On one of the bearings, it rests against a lip. If you use too big of a socket to drive the bearing out from the back side, you could be resting on that lip. A good swing with the hammer will then ruin the hub.

 

[canyncarvr]

On the drive out, you'll be banging on the inner race. You can 'feel' the race on bearing #1 (with the spacer in the hub). You're lucky to get enough of a purchase to get it out.

On #2 (with the spacer out of the hub), you have a much better angle to get to the inner race.

While you may use a socket for the second bearing, I don't know why you'd bother with the first as the spacer won't allow anything larger than the axle past.

I'm unsure of what the 'lip' part means. The inner race isn't anywhere close to a cast lip.

I was going to mention this; didn't cuz I didn't want to state the obvious, but here goes....

DO be sure you remove the retaining clip in the hub before you start pounding on anything. It isn't always obvious due to grease and crud.

 

[skipro3]

Thanks CC. that clip was NOT obvious on mine due to the crud and rust. I remember though, that I was banging from the other side like crazy after pulling the clip without even the slightest movement of the bearing so I flushed everything with brake cleaner and looked inside. I thought it was a cast lip that prevented the bearing from going further. My bearing does not have a race seperate from the bearing. It is simply a squeeze fit bearing into the casting of the hub with a lip to keep you from setting the bearing too deep. Just don't use too large of a socket. It will hit something before it hits the bearing that you are trying to drive out.

 

[SmokinRZ]

Cool!!! I'll give it a try. Can't be any harder to get out than the races on my trailer hubs, just more costly if I screw it up :( Thanks everyone!

 

[BRush]

Driving them in is the easy part. Removing them can be another story. Normally it's not hard, but if the bike has been neglected, then over time the bearings can "rust weld" in place and be pure hell to get out. If you suspect you might have this kind of trouble, I recommend dousing them with penetrating oil and letting them soak overnight, then heat the hub around bearing with a propane torch just before driving it out to give yourself the best chance. As CC said don't forget to remove the snap ring....

 

[tireman]

Also, When installing bearings always use the outer race for installation. Don't push agaist the inner race unless neccessary.

 

[CaptainObvious]

Since everyone is giving their 2-cents (were up to about .12 or so)...

A one-inch brass pin is the best thing to drive the bearings into the hub. The brass pin keeps your new bearings from getting destroyed in the event that you "over drive" them.

Next...

 

[wibby]

ok, here's my 2 pennies

I prefer a bearing driver like this in the pic:

 

[Braahp]

I found it easier to use the old bearing to drive the new in.

 

[Danman]

I have never done the bearings on the KDX, but I do have a tip for you. When I did my bearings I had a heard time with it until I broke out with the heat.

I used a heat gun (looks like a blow dryer). Just keep it moving so you heat it up evenly and does warp anything. I got them just hot enough to sizzle spit (about 250 degrees) You can also use a temperature stick (crayon tip thing that will change color when it reaches a certian temp). Once, I did that I placed the wheel on the open end of a 5 gallon bucket and lightly tapped them out with a long alignment punch and a hammer. They fell right in the bucket. From the start of the heat until having them out was about 5 minutes total. Just remember to tap in a circular motion so it evenly pushes the bearing out. You don't want to end up wedging the thing in the race.

I replaced with some better quality rubber sealed ones from the local bearing shop of about 6 bucks a peice (very nice price compaired to stock). I stuck them puppys in the freezer for a couple of hours and lightly taped them in with a socket just about as large at the outer race.

I hope that will help you.

 

[JasonWho]

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[canyncarvr]

re: old bearings to put in new bearings.

The wheel bearings are somewhat recessed. What keeps the 'old' from sticking in with the 'new'?

Yeah..I've used old outside races (steering) and bearings at times, but not for the wheels due to the recessed part. So, not having tried that in this position I cannot speak from a knowledgeable vantage.

But, the recess isn't an issue?

Also, I put some neverseize on the hub/bearing before I put them in. Keeps them from the 'welding' that can go on that BRush mentioned.

Step 2 (step 1 having failed):
You beat the life out of the bearing and it comes apart, leaving only the outer race in the hub and you have no purchase to get it out.

Several have welded a bead on the race, when it cools it either comes out easily or at least gives you something to whack on.

If your wheel bearings are that bad, you'd best be getting your swingarm (pivot bolt) apart sooner than later. There's a piece that likes to stick!

CBR sells a bearing kit for the rear. Comes with seals. Lifetime guarantee! Of course, that doesn't mean they last a lifetime. But some (BRush) have had good luck: 1. With the bearings in the first place, and 2. Getting replacements from CBR when they do fail.

Compare something like allballs bearings with what comes from CBR and you'll notice a big difference. Allballs (korean or chinese stuff) don't last for diddle. Yep. CBR does cost more!

p.s.
They make a tapered roller kit for the steering bearings (oem is still ball bearings) in most street hondas, too! My 700sc thanks me! Now THERE'S an important piece of information!!

 

[wibby]

It is kinda common sense but somewhere I read a tip that it is better to use a heavy hammer with a lighter blow than to use a lighter hammer with a heavy blow.

When removing bearings and races I use a 2 or 3lb sledge that has only about a 8-10 inch handle on it.

I recently bought a Moose front bearing kit, for some reason they included 3 bearings??

 

[DVO]

I agree with the light tap-heavy sledge part, makes a big difference. You'll think you're getting nowhere until bingo, they're out. I also used a socket to smack new ones in. First time I did it, I found it pretty easy.
G' luck.

 

[JasonWho]

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[canyncarvr]

But if you stop before it starts...

then the new bearing isn't seated too good, 'eh? Might as well use a socket.

Is a metric socket required? ;)

At least with a socket, you have an extension attached (backwards through the socket so the flat of the back of the socket is contacting the bearing...but, you knew that) that makes the job a bit easier than trying to hold on to an old bearing!

Oh....if you do use the socket/extension as above, make sure that if the extension extends past the socket that there isn't a clearance issue between the extension and the inner race of the bearing.

 

[JasonWho]

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[SmokinRZ]

Ok guys, I did it last night. Got sealed bearings off some guy on e-bay who had a good sales pitch for $23 total with shipping. Saved me a trip to the bearing supply house plus I never can get there during their bus hours. I used the longest punch in my craftsman set and pounding on them in a circular pattern they poped right out. Took the new ones out of the freezer and they went in almost as fast using the same method. Less time consuming than making two trips to the dealer. Thanks for the tips!