ATF or OIL for gearbox?

[rideduro]

Just finished putting the bike back together. All of the suggestions from here were right on (water pump seal, kick start spring, KIPS lever). Thanks to everybody who replied to the previous thread.

So almost ready to fire it up but I read some people are using ATF, some using gear oil and some using reg. 0-30 & 5-30 motor oil. Any thoughts or consensus on this?

 

[theckeler]

I've been using ATF, seems to go ok... what people suggested to me

 

[julien_d]

Search much? This has been gone over countless times, and will likely end up in an argument yet again.

I use ATF, gear oil, cheap 10w 40, whatever. It all works fine. Just do NOT use engine oil with friction modifiers in it.

 

[Rich Rohrich]

There is a lot of info on ATF in this thread : http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=5288

 

[mudpack]

I use engine oil with friction modifiers in it.
Works great; I get another dyno-verified 10hp out of the engine and about 50mpg....no spooge and the KIPS is noiseless.

JK


A good four-stroke motorcycle oil, which is made to use in unit-construction engine/gearboxes would meet the factory requirement. The factory recommends engine oil, in weights from 10W-30 to 20W-50, depending on temperatures. But, then, what do they know? :)

 

[allUseeisRoost]

cant go wrong with Bell Ray

 

[liven07]

I bought klotz racing trans. oil that was about $12/qt and was very disappointed, my gears shifted hard clutch stuck it was crap, the problem is i got warn clutch plates that the groves are gone so it makes my clutch stick, i used some atf next was much better then i change it again when i inspecting my clutch and i put 20w50 in it and the problem is almost gone. The clutch needs to be fixed but if 20w50 worked that good with faulty parts thats what i am going to be using when it is fixed. Also 20w50 is a more heavy oil so if your hard on your bike or live in a hot climate it might be a good choice.

 

[sr5bidder]

plus 1 atf ( ford type f )

Smoother shifting

I dont really use the clutch except when taking off /down shifting /and fanning for power

 

[reepicheep]

Hmmm.... My Buell streetbike (XB9SX) has a separate transmission cavity from the engine oil, and Harley has a very good transmission oil for them (called Formula+). It is made for a motorcycle transmission and clutch and not for an engine.

I think it is close to 20w50, which sounds a little on the heavy side for what Kawasaki wanted, but its not unreasonable. I think it runs about $8 a quart, so it might be a good option if you have a Harley dealer nearby.

I've run Mobil 1 gear oil in the Buell as well... it works great, but it attacks yellow metals. Is there brass, bronze, or copper anywhere in these things?

 

[mudpack]

I think it is close to 20w50, which sounds a little on the heavy side for what Kawasaki wanted, but its not unreasonable.

The trans lube chart in the KDX's owner's manual indicates that 20W-50 is suitable at 32 degrees F. and above.

Mud

 

[Wolf]

In my KDX days, I ran ATF...no problems, cheap, and readily available...just change regularly.

 

[sr5bidder]

reep
I do believe there is a brass bushing in the clutch basket

 

[rideduro]

Thanks for the info - now new problem.

Thanks for the feedback. Decided to "mostly" follow the manual go w/ reg. oil (5-30) for now. It's a short run because the oil was contaminated when the water pump seal blew so I'll change it very soon.

BUT -put it all back together and can't get it started. Has spark & fuel, tried kicking, pushing, starter fluid, cussing (alot)... No Love

:bang: :bang: :bang:

You all have been very help - any suggestions for this one?

 

[dirt bike dave]

Thanks for the feedback. Decided to "mostly" follow the manual go w/ reg. oil (5-30) for now. It's a short run because the oil was contaminated when the water pump seal blew so I'll change it very soon.

BUT -put it all back together and can't get it started. Has spark & fuel, tried kicking, pushing, starter fluid, cussing (alot)... No Love

:bang: :bang: :bang:

You all have been very help - any suggestions for this one?

Hmmm. Could be the woodruff key that holds the flywheel in proper alignment has sheared. This can allow the flywheel to shift on the end of the crank, so you get spark, just at the wrong time.

How are the reeds? Worn or chipped reeds can make cold starting diffiuclty.

Do you have good compression?

Is the fuel fresh, or possibly contaminated with water? Did you drain the float bowl?

Is the KIPS linkage connected properly? Maybe the KIPS is stuck open.

A little more history might be helpful. Was the bike running well and an easy starter before you replaced the water pump seal? Did it overheat? What other work did you do on it since it was last running?

 

[rideduro]

Hi Dave - thanks for the quick reply.

History:
Old beater bike, generally poorly maintained prior to us buying it.

Before the seal went it ran OK, cold start 2-3 kicks w/ choke, warm start 1 kick.

I don't believe it overheated - there was still alot of water in the system when we broke it down.

While doing the seal we replaced the sm. kickstart spring, the KIP exhaust lever and the seal.

I have the KIPS cover off right now (was going to check it when we got the bike running) and it's all the way in. Rod and valve body move easy.

Have not checked compression w/ gauge yet but seems similar to before the seal blew.

Have not pulled reeds yet (not orig, Boysen AM's), did not drain fuel bowl.

Fuel; Gold Spec @ 50:1 - few months old - too much?

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Is the plug wet? Inside the expansion chamber? Take the plug out and tip the bike over, see if anything comes out? Could have too much fuel in the bottom end. A 1990 KDX 200 came jetted for 50:1?