Autoclutch..?

Use the search function "autoclutch". I am not ragging on you but some will.'

Jim

This is a good place to check also http://rekluse.com/

Mully

Hi Matt,

I'm also fairly new to riding (very new still actually), but I'll give it a shot at explaining what they are from the info I've gathered on the net...

Oh, and before I forget, also try a search on EFM autoclutch in this forum for some very detailed reviews of what they're like...

An autoclutch is in essence a clutch that works on the centerfuge theory, that is, while the bike is idleing (or otherwise turning lower RPM) the driveline is disengaged so the motor will not stall as it would on a normal clutch bike while stopped...

As the engine rpm increases, the centrifugal force "spreads" some type of friction surface within the clutch that "engages" the driveline while the rpms remain up... This has the same effect as fanning or feathering the clutch lever on a standard clutch bike and makes power delivery at low speeds smooth with no danger of stalling the motor.

I've been in nitro RC cars for years and years, and this type of clutch principle has been in use on small RC cars forever... At idle RPM the spinning flywheel doesn't impart enough cetrifugal force to overcome the spring tension holding the clutch shoes closed... as you ramp up the RPM the clutch shoes "spread open" making contact with the inside of the clutch bell and thus turning the drive shaft... The more RPM the "harder" the clutch engages...

I would think that for very low speed highly technical riding, an autoclutch on a trailbike would be most advantageous, as the power delivery would be very smooth and the danger of stalling the motor would be nonexistent Even if you dumped the bike!

Because you needn't commit attention to proper feathering of the clutch you could instead concentrate almost entirely on the trail, throttle control and steering and keeping a firm grip on BOTH sides of the handlebars :)

Downsides of the autoclutch? The expense basically, as all the autoclutch manufacturers claim that clutch life is the same as normally clutched bikes and that installation (and replacement of the original clutch) is a simple matter...

I have to share though that one downside that I interpreted from the autoclutch (and the reason I am not considering one at this time) is that since I am new to dirtbikes, I wanted to become VERY comfortable with all the controls, which to me, included proper clutching technique on a standard bike... Kind of like learning to drive a stick before getting an automatic :) I also reasoned that since the autoclutch bikes are the vast minority, becoming intimately familiar with ONLY an autoclutch bike might be a detriment if I wanted to say, borrow and ride a friends bike. There is also the potential for mechanical failure due to increased complexity, but this may be a minimal increase as I think the designs are fairly straightforward and uncomplicated...

My estimation is that if you can ride well with a standard clutch, you can ride better without the need for one :) When I get to the point where I no longer have to think about clutching at all when I ride, I might then consider an autoclutch, because then my "technique" would have the best chance of really improving (having gained som mastery over the "basics")

There ARE valid arguments in the reverse, i.e. people who have crashed and gotten completely out of the sport, when an autoclutch might have kept them in it, but in the end, it all comes down to how devoted you are to ride well :)

Being out there and riding anything, is better than giving up :)

Have a good one! Hope I'm not too off-base...

Feanor

Nicely written Feanor!
Yeah...what he said! :)

Keep in mind that when you read, 'And you can still use the clutch lever!'...that is NOT true with the KDX.

Basically, any clutch that is activated from the 'outside' (as is the KDX) will NOT allow you to keep manual activation as an option.

A couple of things to consider also...no engine engagement on downhills (unless you 'lock it up' and KEEP it locked up going downhill)...and bump starts become a thing of the past...and there will be NO engagement of the engine on uphills that you've stalled in the middle of (oh yeah..an autoclutch will never stall! Ha!).

You ever been on a steep uphill with your bike in neutral (and you can't take it OUT of neutral?)

Ah...never mind. I'm not an auto-clutch worshipper. I full well realize that a whole lot of riders like 'em a whole lot.

I'm just not ready to part with the hundreds (and hundreds...or tens of hundreds) of bucks it takes to find out.

Revloc Guy

To the point, I have a Revloc auto clutch and love it. Other than not being able to bump start it, all of the other criticisms are not true, including engine brake downhill. Just blip the throttle, it will catch and stay caught all the way down. Yes it's an expensive mod, but the best one I've done so far, and I've done a lot of them. A month ago I had a shock blow on the way to a two day ride. A friend of mine let me borrow his new Honda 250X! Nice machine and I had no trouble going back to a clutch, although there were times when I missed the Revloc. If I let someone ride mine they tell me they get used to the auto clutch in about two miles or less. I'm not that familar with the other brands, but I've read the posts and they seem more complicated to install, and they have a wear factor with the plates. I don't think Revloc has the same design, and wear, even with abuse, is minimal. You get what you pay for most of the time. Whatever your logic is to get one, or not get one is an individual decision. My only advice would be to try one, if possible, before you decide. Riding style is definitely a factor, and of course that is an personal issue. I try to guage riding mods on the fun factor scale, if you're not having fun, what's the point?

Mark,

You have valid points and I'm in total agreement that the end result is definitely one of individual preference whatever that may be...

The learning curve might also be something of a completely individual facet as well, with some people effortlessly going from one side to another, but from your message, I get a general impression that you rode a standard clutch for a while before going the autoclutch route? Is that right?

For me, and maybe the original poster (Matt) we're both novices just getting into it, and it might be to both of our advantages to hold off on the autoclutch for a while until we get to the point where we can comfortably go back and forth between the two systems because they are both "familiar"... If I started with an auto right from the get go in my very short off road career... I would probably be at a very large loss if I had to use another persons bike... somewhere down the road (no pun intended)

Your points make perfect sense for a rider with more hours in the saddle, but I think its sound to try to be more rounded at the very start rather than "specializing" right from the start since the auto bikes are the vast minority...

I have to say though (in keeping with switching from one to the other) that one very funny incident while I was at Pismo Beach happened when I jumped on my cousins quad to try it out... I got a quick lesson in how to work the automatic transmission (including reverse), but they failed to tell this clutch grabber that the left lever was indeed the rear brake! LoL! Only took a little while to get used to the new system only because I got really tired of slamming my body into the front portions of the quad! hahaha!

Oh and you are COMPLETELY wrong about the "if its not fun, what's the point" because I was talking to this attractive redhead at a party the other night and I was having a really fun time until my wife came over! LoL!

have a good one!

Feanor

I get the part about starting out with the auto clutch , and I can go through the gears with out the clutch. But how do you rev the engine when down shifting or do you just down shift? I would think that extra stress would be put on the gears when down shifting. I can down shift a 10 wheel dump without using the clutch because you can find neutral first and rev it but I cant see how this works on a bike, but i still want one.

I have a RevLoc on an '04 KTM 200 EXC. Is it necessary? No.... Does it make the bike a whole lot more fun to ride? Damn straight!

The engagement is buttery smooth... perfect amount of clutch feathering every time. You still have to shift and pay attention to the gear you're in, it just lays down the power better than a human can.

As far as engine braking, I still have it, and rarely if ever have to blip the throttle. The best thing I like about it is not stalling the bike in the really slow technical stuff, and brake sliding like a madman. And by slow and technical, I'm taking about walking pace through rocks, and tight, bar-busting twisty trees. The kind where the clutch lever is pulled in more than it is out.

You still have instant hook-up when you want it. Just whack the throttle, and the front end pops up.... 1st... 2nd.... 3rd... pop... pop... pop!

It is an expensive mod, and a luxury to be sure, but my next bike will definitely have a RevLoc.

Everyone here at DRN has heard me rave about my EFM auto-clutch so I won't bore y'all again. There will always be nay-sayers but I'm all for it, I've never turned faster lap times in my life than I have with the auto-clutch.

Well... CC runs real tight trails... not laps. Depends on your application.

Real danger

Feanor,

Talking to a redhead with your wife in the room far surpasses my danger threshold. Hope you were wearing body armor when you took that fall.
I agree with your approach to the clutch/auto clutch issue. Get to know your bike with the clutch, in all conditions and become as proficient as you can, you'll appreciate the auto clutch all the more if you switch.

rethnal said:

Well... CC runs real tight trails... not laps. Depends on your application.

Click to expand...

No tighter than what we race in the American Woods Racing Series and any trail ridden more than once is called a "lap".

Autoclutch availability update:

Rekluse: Got an e-mail today: Status Quo: Not yet available, in development.
Revloc: On special, available for $795. No core charges.
EFM: Status Quo. Still available for $500. NEW WEB SITE URL: www.efmautoclutch.com.

More input .. had an EFM on my KTM 400 and liked it and hated it. Specifically, you should be prepared to put in a lot of time for installation and adjustments. Installation is fairly straight forward (though like any moto product, directions can always be better - however, the EFM guys are incredible in the support department) and so is the adjustment process but it all takes time. It may work perfectly for you the first time but don't expect it to. I had lots of issues with too much drag (and thus, LOTS of stalling - remember, no bump start) or too high of an engagement point (burned out clutch and need to replace plates, twice). If you are willing to face with the *potential* issues then I would recommend trying it because it does work well when perfect. I still prefer a manual clutch but this may not be the case for you. Just go into this with your eyes widen open. Good luck.

FWIW, the RevLoc was a 40 minute install, start to finish. This includes reading and re-reading the instructions, studying the color-coded exploded parts/installation diagram, taking pictures, and pausing just to make sure I didn't screw it up. Call me anal.

To do it a second time would take about 20 minutes. It's basically a drop-in replacement for your stock basket. No adjustments, shimming, gaskets, measuring, re-adjustments to fuss with. Drop it in and ride. The only thing you have to do is soak the fiber plates in oil overnight before installing. You get a new clutch pack, and can save your OEM basket if you ever want to switch back, or sell your bike. The install was so quick and simple, even I could do it! ;)