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Dirt Bike Mods & Maintenance
Bike runs wide open after closing throttle
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[QUOTE="Detonator, post: 812467, member: 44104"] I'm doing a follow-up on this post, just for people who may encounter this problem and are doing a search. 1. There is, indeed a recall on throttle pulleys for 1996-2001 YZ125's and 250's, and, if I'm not mistaken, the 4-strokes (any clarification?). A lot of folks are buying these bikes used, and won't get any notification about the recall. That, and used bikes are more likely to have developed grit or kinks in the throttle cable, which can create enough slack to cause wedging between the pulley and the throttle housing. There's a ton of these bikes still out there, and I encourage you to ask owners if they are aware of the recall. Link: [url]http://www.recall-warnings.com/cpsc-content-02-02505.html[/url] 2. I discovered quite a bit of dirt in my float bowl and some sludgy buildup on the walls of the slide. In addition, the little rubber cable cover on top of the carb was rotted and useless.I'll have to invent a replacement, since my new cable doesn't come with one. A buddy informed me that a lot of guys cause carb trouble by sticking a WD-40 nozzle in the cable at the handlebar end and hosing a bunch of oil down the cable in an attempt to remove kinks. This is fine for a clutch cable, but disaster for a throttle cable. If you think about it, all that oil and any accompanying grit will dump directly in the carb. If you're guilty, clean that carb! If you have to lube the cable, remove it from the carb, do your thing, and then hang it vertically for a couple of hours to let excess drip out. 3. I do woods racing, so every vent tube except the float bowl drain is tucked up high in a dryer environment and taped (not zip-tied, which can crush the tubes). If you keep your tubes hanging in the traditional way, at least clip the open ends at an angle so they have less chance of plugging up with nastiness. Air vent tubes should last quite a while, but tubes that contact fuel have a shorter life span. If they're crusty or cracked, pitch 'em. 4. After seeing the amount of grit and communism in my throttle assembly and tube, I will now add this to my list of maintenance areas. It'll take less than 5 minutes to clean and remount. 5. If you're going to clean your carb, take an extra minute and pull your reed cage at the same time (4 strokers exempt). Apparently grit in the reed assembly can cause weird engine problems. I had some evidence of dirt in the area, and I'm glad I pulled and cleaned it. Check the rubber boot for cracks/holes. That would be a bad place to have a compromised entry point. 6. Take a degreaser to the airbox and rubber boot while the carb is off. If you notice a lot of tackiness or grease, change your air filter technique. Sometimes people have good filter prep, but they stick the thing in there and go riding right away; often just letting the filter sit overnight lets the oil soak deeper into the foam and is less likely to get sucked into the boot. Ditto for the grease ring around the filter; if you're greasing too close to the inner edge of the filter rim, grease can spooge and get sucked into the boot and/or carb. Sounds anal, but those little jets in the carb make you realize that a spoonful of grease could really spoil a day of riding. 7. If you're going to go to all the trouble of yanking and cleaning a carb, you'd be wise to drain your gas tank, rinse the bottom areas with some fresh fuel, dump that, too, and start with some fresh premix. Ditto for your fuel can. Common sense, but it's exactly the kind of thing we get lazy with. Anyone want to add items? [/QUOTE]
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MX, SX & Off-Road Discussions
Dirt Bike Mods & Maintenance
Bike runs wide open after closing throttle
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