Buying an 89 KDX 200

Have you rode it? If it starts, runs and rides well... it is worth $800. Yes there are a lot of things to check out after the purchase... but for $800 I would say buy it. I know of no problems with this year bike that any of the other years don't have.... weak springs, jetted rich etc.....

The only real problem they had with the 89-94 kdx engine was if the kips valves were not cleaned regularly(once a year)or if the bike was run rich or on a poor grade of 2-cycle oil the kips valves would sieze and strip the teeth on the kips valves,you can check this buy removing the pipe and kips valve cover(the plastic cover on the right side of the cylinder) and activate them by hand,just pull the shaft out and see if they all work the side ones and the one above the exhaust port should all rotate at the same time.They are not that expensive around $35.00 canadian the last time I checked.They also had a problem with the waterpump seal going on the 89,so for 90-94 they installed a back-up seal,you can upgrade to this,to tell if the seal is gone run the bike and if the tranny oil is milky the seal is gone,if possible ride for awhile to check this.If the bike has been sitting for 2-3 years the crankshaft seals may also need to be replaced,these seals may dry out after sitting for periods unused.I would at least have a leak down test done on the motor,the only way to replace the crankshaft seals is to take the entire motor apart.Check the swingarm and wheel bearings by raising the bike off the ground and push on them sideways to see for worn bearings.Try to work the suspension up and down,if you can just bounce up and down on it as you ride along,if the shock or fork seals are gone this should cause them to leak.Otherwise they are a good reliable bike.
Good luck...

ditto on all the previous poster said. My bike faithfully ruined the KIPS valves each time I used anything less than the absolute best dirt biking engine oil. I just changed the water pump seal after having done so only a year before. Definitely take apart the rear suspension components (all except the shock) and the swingarm. Actually you may not even be able to take out the swingarm pivot bolt since the bearings will be so rusted. If you don't replace them right away you'll do damage. It's an old bike, so get a owners manual and disassemble and maintenance everything you can before taking it out in the dirt and thrashing it.
happy trails!

I have just replaced:
crank pin, conrod and bearings - big end bearing was worn out after alot of use.
piston rings and cylinder - my stuff up with OEM vs aftermarket piston circlips.
Kips subvalves and actuator rack - consider this routine on this model.
gearbox output shaft - sprocket spline was shagged, bike does heaps of road milage.
and all other seals and bearings in the motor - because I was there.
It is not too hard, I am a novice and only used a shop to rebuild the crank.
Cases need to be split to change the crank seals.
Cracks in the frame are likely to be near the top shock mount if anywhere and then probably only where the subframe connects.
In tight woods riding the bike will go as fast as your gonads are big.
You have to realise that the bike is 14 years old and will require a fair amount of TLC. Get into the steering head and suspension linkages as soon as possible.
Maintenance manuals are still available from Kawasaki dealers, at least here in Oz.

Kawa did something right with the 89 KDX. I have a 97 and my friend bought my 89. Performance wise there is no difference. The biggest advantage on the 97 is the motocross type frame.
Do what Jaguar suggest. Overhaul the swimgarm & linkage bearings.
If the crank seals are not leaking dont replace them. Its a lot of work for a maybe!! If it aint broken dont fix it. There are tests to be done to see if the seals are gone. Just ask.

Go for it. Its a lovely bike.

JdBrusch, Jaguar, Jpm200 and others,


I just got back from a pretty grueling ride at Browns Camp about 30 miles West of Portland Oregon. Great ride and I made it back fairly unscathed but my previously trusty 89 KDX did not. The Water Pump Seal gave out as evidenced by a large amount of milky spew emitting from my crankcase breather hose. Can you guys recommend a good place to buy the seal parts online. I just looked in BikeBandit.com and they didn't have that part listed. Also, how much effort is it?, should I try to find a backup bike for next weekend (loaner from a buddy) or could I do it in a night or two after work? Finally, will the double seal setup for the 90-94 versions mentioned in a previous posting drop right in?

Thanks in advance!

Not sure where to get the seal online. I rely on my local Kawasaki dealer.
To replace the water pump seal you have to pull the right side engine cover off.
I am pretty sure that the 90-94 seal will drop right in.
Remove seat, tank, RH side cover, drain transmission, drain coolant, remove muffler, pipe, RH kips cover, kick start lever, clutch cable and cover, rear brake pedal then the RH engine cover should come right off (a few taps with a soft mallet to pursuade it)... about a 1 beer job to dismantle you can probably use a socket to drive the seals, then another beer to reassemble. Don't forget new gaskets....

This is another job that can be done without undoing the LEFT HANDED thread on top of the KIPS actuator rod but it will be easier to reassemble if you undo it.

Sorry NX650 I can't give give you anywhere to get the parts online,I also have to rely on my local dealer,which by the way has NEVER had any parts for these bikes in stock.Anyway the main seal on the 89-94 bikes looks like two seals molded together, the second seal on the 90-94 is @1/8" thick and looks like a single lipped seal,and will fit on the 89.I would recommend cleaning out the tranny with a 50/50 mix of oil(ATF is ok) and paint thinner,this will get rid of the water.Do this before changing the seal,fill the rad to 1" from the top and run it at idle with the rad cap off,this will prevent the cooling system from building pressure and blowing coolant past the seal again.Run it until the engine is hot ,then drain the oil,I would do this at least 2-3 times or until the oil is free of water.You do not have to remove the tank and exhaust to remove the right engine cover.Leave the clutch cable until last,once you have removed everything else needed to remove the right cover just pull the clutch lever and it should pop the cover loose.You should replace the water pump bearings at the same time, they can be found at a local bearing shop part# 608, ask for open bearings, if they come sealed just pop out the seals with a small pick,this is a easy job and should only take a couple hours.
good luck :thumb:

Thanks Gentleman!

Great advice! I will be starting this project immediately and let you know how it goes.