nephron said:
Wait, wait, wait, wait....you said your only problems were idle and smoke (at idle, I guess). You say you've messed with jetting until the nads turned blue. It runs 'great' otherwise, I guess? If so, I doubt you could fly cleanly while sucking tranny oil into your transfers.
What have you done with the carb lately? Take the bowl off, pilot out and spray carb cleaner throughout the pilot circuit. Take some high pressure air to it, too. This is one of the many jetting woes I've chased with the PWK39.
What are your jettings specs at what altitude?
Lastly, why Benol? I think they keep the castor based oil around for diehards, but I wouldn't think it would be wise with a powervalve unless you're talking a strung out RM125 being raced 100% of its service duty. Almost any other oil type would suffice--all smoke less than benol, even if not considered low smoke. Personally Gowen, I wouldn't let a castor oil near my powervalved 500 and I hope you quit using it soon.
32:1 is where you should stay if you're jetted for that.
My bet is a pilot circuit issue that will be simple to fix. You should know by now these KX500's are easy to fix--they don't break.
What kind of port timing changes were done, or what port 'type' did you get? If low rpm signal was affected enough, you may just have to really change your pilot setup all around.
Well, I've always used a castor based oil. But, currently I have H1R mixed at 50:1 with C12. I was using Benol at 32:1 but I've drained that and at your advice will not use it again, just keep it for my cr144 eric gorr.
Here's the layout and I hope you can help me, as nobody as been able to. I had Eric (Forward Motion) do a KX520 job, ported for mid-high rpm, and on pump. I decided to have my entire motor sent for a new rod, a crank balance, bearings, and seals. I have no doubt in Eric, so I know the job was done right. :worship:
I got the bike back and wanted more top-end power, so I retarded the timing just to the notch, which helped alot.
Anyway, on to jetting. Sea Level - I have just about every pilot from size 40 all the way to a 68. Main jet from 158 to a 182.
The pilot: I'm currently on the 42. I went down to a 40 and got ALOT of surging and waaay too much touchy throttle, like sticking. Lean... On a 45, I get excessive smoke and no idle, 1/4 throttle power, just sputtering. This is with playing from closed air screw out to 2 1/2 turns, which made no difference on the 45, but a hell of a difference on the 40 with 2 1/2 turns (ran good). 42 is the key at 2 turns even. Power, little idle, runs good, alot of smoke but not excessive.
The needle: I'm currently on the 2nd notch. As the first notch is lean, being it surges, throttle is WAAAY to sensitive and almost scary as the throttle acts stuck, kinda like you are running out of gas. 3rd notch causes a sluggish response in the mid range and will barely even pull the rpm and will absolutely kill the idle to nothing. Very rich on the 3rd. 2nd seems to be the key on a stock needle.
The slide: #7. Stock: keeping to that.
The main: started with a 178, very rich, no topend, smoke no throttle response. made it eventually down 162. Throttle is killer in the WOT position. Not much smoke unless built up by trail riding or just cruising. Have gone down to a 160 and it felt great, plugs were tan, so I decided to move up to a 162 to be safe. Anything higher than a 162 is too rich, excessive smoke and bad response on the throttle.
I have also measured the float height about 100 times. So that is not the issue either. :(
Like I've said, still no idle unless the screw is all the way in and alot of smoke. I'm using an BR8EIX and have yet to foul it in 6 months. But, it is still blackish. So, I'm rich.
Have done throttle chop tests on the 162 main, and it is coming out with a ring on it, kinda dark brown. So, a little rich.
Any thoughts? :yikes:
PS: Checked powervalves too, all too often. They are free and operating fine.