Chain cutting

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Psalm31.24

Member

Dec 5, 2002

147

0

• Jan 30, 2003

• #1

I just ordered a DID 520 ERT, it's got 120 links. I need to remove six links to get it to 114 links. How do you guys remove/cut a chain down to size? Also, will my new chain come with a masterlink or do I purchase that separately? Thanks in advance.

 

C

chowder6

Member

Dec 16, 2002

67

0

• Jan 30, 2003

• #2

buy a chain breaker, ..they're cheap and a definate must have for a tool box.....yes ,a master link should come w/ new chain.

 

Reesknight

~SPONSOR~

Oct 31, 2002

942

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• Jan 30, 2003

• #3

I just use a grinder to grind off the flared end of the pin and use a punch to knock it out. A chain breaker would probably be better though. Remember you only count the outside plates to get the number of links.

 

P

Psalm31.24

Member

Dec 5, 2002

147

0

• Jan 30, 2003

• Thread starter
• #4

Would a chain breaker that I use for my bicycles work?

 

P

Peer Lovell

Member

Nov 25, 1999

600

0

• Jan 30, 2003

• #5

Nope, you need one large enough and strong enough for an MX chain.
A grinder works just fine. Just make sure you are grinding the correct link!
Yes your chain will come with a master link.

 

J

jjcobra99

Member

Oct 17, 2002

120

0

• Jan 30, 2003

• #6

Where do you get a chain breaker?

 

J

jjcobra99

Member

Oct 17, 2002

120

0

• Jan 30, 2003

• #7

Also, how do they work? Thanks.

 

Reesknight

~SPONSOR~

Oct 31, 2002

942

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• Jan 30, 2003

• #8

Originally posted by jjcobra99
Where do you get a chain breaker?

Click to expand...

http://www.rockymountainmc.com/wc.d...57~ACC~TOOLS~Patton+Chain+Breaker~150113~~~~0
or
http://www.rockymountainmc.com/wc.d...CC~TOOLS~Motion+Pro+Chain+Breaker~150420~~~~0

 

A

agitt73

~SPONSOR~

May 11, 2000

1,078

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• Jan 30, 2003

• #9

your local farm store or motorcycle shop should have them
prices make sure you dont buy one made out of aluminun
get the one made of cast iron or steel

 

W

wsmc831

~SPONSOR~

Apr 30, 2002

298

0

• Jan 31, 2003

• #10

Yep, DO NOT try and brake a chain with just a chain breaker. You'll just brake the pin on the tool....trust me.
I bought a motion pro kit 10 years ago...still going strong. You MUST grind off the heads first, but it only takes a second. Really the kits just make getting the links on and off quicker, and it seats the master link side much better than using channel locks or similar.

 

C

chowder6

Member

Dec 16, 2002

67

0

• Jan 31, 2003

• #11

i've broken plenty of chains w/ a breaker ....and when i did ,i never ground down the pin first....they broke easily...if u ground down the pin first, why even buy a breaker, just tap it out w/ a punch....i use the longer handle kind, not the pocket type.

 

M

MXN4FUN

Member

Jul 7, 2000

168

0

• Jan 31, 2003

• #12

I broke the pocket type and then replaced the pin and it has lasted well over five years and broke numerous chains. I think some of the pins had bad tempering. If you only do one chain every so often just grind down the pin on both sides and drive it out with a punch, heck I've even done it with a 16d nail. Long time ago ;)

 

Jaybird

Apprentice Goon

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Mar 16, 2001

6,449

0

Charlestown, IN

• Jan 31, 2003

• #13

Originally posted by wsmc831
Yep, DO NOT try and brake a chain with just a chain breaker. You'll just brake the pin on the tool....trust me.
I bought a motion pro kit 10 years ago...still going strong. You MUST grind off the heads first, but it only takes a second. Really the kits just make getting the links on and off quicker, and it seats the master link side much better than using channel locks or similar.

Click to expand...

Always be suspect of "trust me" statements!:laugh:

I have been using chain breakers since I was knee high to a young bluetick and have never had one bit of problem. Perhaps you should buy a good chain breaker (and of the proper size) and you wouldn't have to give out such bad anecdotal info.

Folks, using a grinder works, I've done it a thousand times, but it isn't a very good idea. Especially with ring chains. Grinder slag finds its way to places that you just don't want it.ie...chain friction areas, rings, sore eyes.

wsmc831...I have a wager for you...I'll bet you a brand new chain of choice that I can break a 520 chain faster with nothing more than my chain breaker than you can with your little kit. Game?

 

Last edited: Jan 31, 2003

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JTT

~SPONSOR~

Aug 25, 2000

1,407

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• Jan 31, 2003

• #14

Jay, what type of breaker do you use? I have to admit, I am a grind and break kind of guy, but only out of poor luck with other methods...or course, most likely breaker related and would love to have one that works. I have the type from the first link given, with the long steel handles. What I do find with this is unless you are very careful, it destorts the link opposite of the one your pushing on. The pin tends to stick on the opposite side and without any support from the breaker, gets pushed out and distorted. I have never used the second type, perhaps it supports the link from the back side.

 

F

Fark

~SPONSOR~

Aug 12, 2002

438

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• Jan 31, 2003

• #15

You don't need a heavy duty grinder. A dremel with a grinding stone works fine. You can press the links together with a small socket and C clamp. Usually it can be pressed and then removed, with the links seated enough for easy clip installation.

 

Jaybird

Apprentice Goon

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Mar 16, 2001

6,449

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Charlestown, IN

• Jan 31, 2003

• #16

The breaker I currently have came from NAPA auto parts. I think it was about $15 US.
The breaker only grabs one side plate. Take a little on one pin, then move it to the other pin and take a little. About twice like this and it will practically fall apart. I've nver had any problem with them distorting the next link.