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Dirt Bike Mods & Maintenance
Chain Stretch
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[QUOTE="Jaybird, post: 166701, member: 22283"] Dave, I see you as one of the most informed persons on here, but on chains I have to take acception to your advise. A non ring chain can and will last every bit as long as a ring chain, if not longer. I cannot speak specifically about a DID chain, as I've never owned one, although I have seen many of them and I don't think they are marketing any low end 520 chains to the public. Nor does Tsubaki. Actually, the care and proper lubrication is far more important than the brand. This mans problem was definately not because of using a non ring chain on a dirt bike. I would bet money it's too tight. OR proper cleaning and lubrication have not been followed. Many do act like they have a ring chain and never lube or clean proper. I agree that the chain and sprocket both are shot now, so new of each is in order. Once you have a new chain and sprockets, go through the mfg's recommendation on how to install it. Then put the bike on a stand and lift the rear wheel until the swingarm is parallel to the ground, or even a bit more. You should still have a bit of slack at that point if it is properly tensioned. Wash the chain after each ride. It's best to use a pressure washer. This will not only take the gunk on the outside off but will allow any dirt that has found its way inside the link to be washed out. Now spray WD40 or any brand of an aerosol water displacement fluid to push the water out from the links. Now you have to properly lube the chain. I'm biased at this point, but I recommend NOT using any of the conventional dirt bike chain lubes including waxes. These will most definately complicate things by attracting unwanted dirt and grit. I would choose a dry-film, molybdenum disalfate type lube. Honda makes one of these. It is usually a transparent black in color and a very low viscosity similar to water. It takes very very little of this type of lubricant to be effective as it is not really an oil, but an evaporating carrier that will deliver moly to the friction surfaces of the chain. The moly will then adhere to each crater that is present in the metal friction surfaces (these are microscopic and you cant see them...even a ground/polished shaft has them). Moly is a very tenasious material and WILL find its way to all the friction surfaces by just placng one drop on each roller. Now, you can use a lubricant that uses oil to carry the load with good success, I just preffer the moly. I have been experimenting with different lubricants on roller chains for many years and found moly to be a far superior method. Now, once you have done everything proper, you need to make it a habit. Wash the chain as above after each day of riding. Also, If I am riding on days that I will use more than one tank of fuel, I will spray the chain down with the WD40 to rid any dirt that may have gotten in, then re-lubricate. If you follow that procedure you will never have a chain that seems to disintigrate on you. O-ring chains were designed for running in the most adverse of conditions like deep mud, or dirt. MX track and trail riding on nice days will not favor one chain over the other. In fact, o-ring chains can cause damage to themselves and sprockets because folks get the idea that they are maintenance/lube free, which they are not. Also when grit enters a ring chain (damaged ring, etc...) it is most likely to stay there and do its damage for many rides to come. Bad part is, it may just be one or two links recieving damage and you won't know it until your sprockets start showing the slightest bit of wear. You may also think your chain hasn't really stretched, but that the sprockets are crap. This would be due to having very few of the links chewing on the sprocket each time it goes round, and when you measure it the chain looks good and within spec. I recommend using an o-ring chain for what it is designed for, for all other times keep the non ring chain on. [/QUOTE]
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MX, SX & Off-Road Discussions
Dirt Bike Mods & Maintenance
Chain Stretch
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