Clutch removal
- Thread starter fxmatt
- Start date
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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Take a look at CDave's site....linked in the 'Every kdx rider should read...' thread stickied to the top of this forum.
Or...click THIS to get there.
Click on 'tech tips' then 'general---specialty tools'.
He has a write up on a 'tool', how to make it and such. It's basically a long lever attached to the flywheel side. Piece 'o cake.
Several options exist. Some have had luck putting the engine in gear and using the rear brake. Some have used rags pinched between the clutch/drive gears. Be careful about using anything that applies force against gear faces and shafts. 'Don't' would probably be a good idea unless you are convinced that's your only option.
Air is the easiest choice. Not any problem with a 1/2" impact and 100+psi.
Maybe a good excuse for you to buy a new tool? That compressor you've been looking at? ;)
Take care using a compressor when it comes to putting the thing back together.
One hint of note if you're not familiar with this assembly. You would be doing yourself a huge favor to have a service manual for this job. Take care to not misplace the washer that is placed under the basket. If you are not expecting it to be there you might miss it being stuck to the underside of the basket. It will drop off later someplace. Then on reass'y, you will have a problem.
Also note the orientation of the large circumference conical spring and seat that sit on the outside plate.
TORQUE those bolts in the hub!! Hamfist those and you will be spending a whole lot of money replacing parts that get broken.
Good Luck.
Or...click THIS to get there.
Click on 'tech tips' then 'general---specialty tools'.
He has a write up on a 'tool', how to make it and such. It's basically a long lever attached to the flywheel side. Piece 'o cake.
Several options exist. Some have had luck putting the engine in gear and using the rear brake. Some have used rags pinched between the clutch/drive gears. Be careful about using anything that applies force against gear faces and shafts. 'Don't' would probably be a good idea unless you are convinced that's your only option.
Air is the easiest choice. Not any problem with a 1/2" impact and 100+psi.
Maybe a good excuse for you to buy a new tool? That compressor you've been looking at? ;)
Take care using a compressor when it comes to putting the thing back together.
One hint of note if you're not familiar with this assembly. You would be doing yourself a huge favor to have a service manual for this job. Take care to not misplace the washer that is placed under the basket. If you are not expecting it to be there you might miss it being stuck to the underside of the basket. It will drop off later someplace. Then on reass'y, you will have a problem.
Also note the orientation of the large circumference conical spring and seat that sit on the outside plate.
TORQUE those bolts in the hub!! Hamfist those and you will be spending a whole lot of money replacing parts that get broken.
Good Luck.
Last edited:
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
You're welcome.
A couple other notes of possible import...........
Make sure you have steel plates in your clutch. Don't know the history of your bike, but it could have something other than ferrous plates. They (not steel) generally will not perform as well as steel.
Friction plates from an XR have considerably more friction surface to them, and DO fit in the kdx basket. Fredette has 'em (Vesrah brand). You won't be using the conical spring and seat with that style of plate. I've not read a complaint about the Vesrah plates (other than mine). The clutch action is ok, but they are considerably more noisy than the oem plates.
If you are replacing plates, do check the angle of the activation rod when you're done. Adding or more likely removing shim(s) will likely be required.
Might as well replace the oil seal on the activation shaft while you're in there.
File your basket while it's apart if there is any notching on the fingers. Draw file 'em (pull the file toward you. That keeps flashing edges from getting someplace they shouldn't be. They only place they should be is in the trash when you're done. Not floating around in the tranny someplace.). Keep the finger surface flat and square.
You can likely reuse the existing gasket a couple of times.
Putting the clutch assy back in with the bike lying on its side will likely be a considerable help in keeping all those plates and splines lined up. If you happen to be doing this in some trailhead parking lot, having the bike on its side precludes you from having to drain the tranny oil, too!
Soak the new friction plates according to the instructions on the packaging! Soak them in what they say (probably ATF).
Don't use any lubricant in the tranny that has friction modifiers in it!! A lot of the newer engine oils have these modifiers. It will say so on the bottle. Ask if you are not sure. What makes things 'slick' for metal-to-metal contact and engine bearings is bad for a wet clutch application.
blah blah blah......
Maybe you know all this already. The original question makes me think not.
Again, good luck!
A couple other notes of possible import...........
Make sure you have steel plates in your clutch. Don't know the history of your bike, but it could have something other than ferrous plates. They (not steel) generally will not perform as well as steel.
Friction plates from an XR have considerably more friction surface to them, and DO fit in the kdx basket. Fredette has 'em (Vesrah brand). You won't be using the conical spring and seat with that style of plate. I've not read a complaint about the Vesrah plates (other than mine). The clutch action is ok, but they are considerably more noisy than the oem plates.
If you are replacing plates, do check the angle of the activation rod when you're done. Adding or more likely removing shim(s) will likely be required.
Might as well replace the oil seal on the activation shaft while you're in there.
File your basket while it's apart if there is any notching on the fingers. Draw file 'em (pull the file toward you. That keeps flashing edges from getting someplace they shouldn't be. They only place they should be is in the trash when you're done. Not floating around in the tranny someplace.). Keep the finger surface flat and square.
You can likely reuse the existing gasket a couple of times.
Putting the clutch assy back in with the bike lying on its side will likely be a considerable help in keeping all those plates and splines lined up. If you happen to be doing this in some trailhead parking lot, having the bike on its side precludes you from having to drain the tranny oil, too!
Soak the new friction plates according to the instructions on the packaging! Soak them in what they say (probably ATF).
Don't use any lubricant in the tranny that has friction modifiers in it!! A lot of the newer engine oils have these modifiers. It will say so on the bottle. Ask if you are not sure. What makes things 'slick' for metal-to-metal contact and engine bearings is bad for a wet clutch application.
blah blah blah......
Maybe you know all this already. The original question makes me think not.
Again, good luck!
Excellent advice and reminders there CC.
To hold the transmission when removing the nut from the clutch, I use a large bar over the swingarm and through one of the holes in the rear sprocket. Be sure the bar does not interfere with the spokes or the chain. Reverse the bar and place under the swingarm to tighten back up. (Or is it the other way around?) Remember.....it's only 65 pounds torque so don't go nuts on the nut. Better yet, use a real torque wrench. For the socket, use a deep, six sided one. Then you won't be needing an extension to clear the clutch housing. Here's a photo:
To hold the transmission when removing the nut from the clutch, I use a large bar over the swingarm and through one of the holes in the rear sprocket. Be sure the bar does not interfere with the spokes or the chain. Reverse the bar and place under the swingarm to tighten back up. (Or is it the other way around?) Remember.....it's only 65 pounds torque so don't go nuts on the nut. Better yet, use a real torque wrench. For the socket, use a deep, six sided one. Then you won't be needing an extension to clear the clutch housing. Here's a photo:
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canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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Does that mean it actually worked after you got done? ;)
Good deal!!
Good deal!!
on your original question re a flywheel holder, I have had success with an oil filter removal tool. You'll need a fairly large one, but they work great.
I have also used the bar through the rear sprocket method; it works too.
I had a problem once with the clutch nut coming undone (didn't torque it enough). It didn't damage anything because it can't actually come all the way off - it hits the clutch actuator inside the cover and stops you from engaging the clutch. I can imagine though, that if you rode like that for long enough the clutch hub could slide on the shaft and perhaps cause some damage to the teeth on the driven gear. Mine was OK after I was forced to ride back to the car (about 60 km).
cheers,
Andrew
I have also used the bar through the rear sprocket method; it works too.
I had a problem once with the clutch nut coming undone (didn't torque it enough). It didn't damage anything because it can't actually come all the way off - it hits the clutch actuator inside the cover and stops you from engaging the clutch. I can imagine though, that if you rode like that for long enough the clutch hub could slide on the shaft and perhaps cause some damage to the teeth on the driven gear. Mine was OK after I was forced to ride back to the car (about 60 km).
cheers,
Andrew
