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Message: [QUOTE="rmc_olderthandirt, post: 1393573, member: 68872"] This concerns me. Anything less than perfect, especially on a plated cylinder, is likely to get a lot worse real quick. If that chip is where the ring will side over it I would expect it to continue chipping. I don't understand what you are saying here. The wrist pin is NOT held tightly. It is a precision fit into the piston, which is why you get a new one with every new piston. The pin should slide into the piston fairly easily. The wrist pin has to roll in the bearing easily. The bearing should be easily inserted into the rod end. Did you replace the wrist pin bearing when you replaced the piston? I usually replace the bearing just because and if there was anything suspect about it at all then you should have changed it. I am not familiar with your bike but I doubt that the kickstart return has anything to do with the bolts holding the cover on. The kickstart return spring is inside the cover. The right side "crankcase cover" is a casting that will have the water pump on it, the kickstart shaft coming out of it, held on with a half dozen or so small bolts. If the return spring is broken you will need to remove the side cover to replace it. I would not expect this to be a difficult job, but you do want to pay attention to the governor and make sure that none of the pieces go bouncing out and get lost. It also helps to have manual so you can see how to put it back together. If the missing bolts are simply missing then they are easily replaced. If they are missing because the threads are stripped then you should really fix them with a "heli-coil" I would expect the drain plug to be a fairly good size bolt on the bottom of the case. It is big to allow the oil to drain out, not because it needs to that tight. It could have a small head, like for a 12mm wrench but it wouldn't surprise me if it required something like a 17mm wrench. These bolts are in harms way and it is not unusual for them to get banged on rocks and damaged to the point that a wrench won't go back on. You can sometimes get them off with a pair of vice-grips but I have had to take a chisel to one to get it off. Before you chisel it off, order up a new one, it should cost you about $5. The oil volume might be marked on the side of the case. Mine says 750ml. Unless you have gone to some lengths to get all the old oil out (like tipping the bike all sorts of different directions) there will probably still be some old oil left in there. On either the case cover or the clutch cover there should be one bolt that is a little different than all the others. This bolt screws into the cover, rather than threw it and into the case. This will be the oil fill level. Remove that screw and fill the oil until it comes out that hole. I am guessing your fill level screw is just below and to the right of the A in HONDA on the clutch cover. Yes, the carb is probably a mess. You will need to take it, remove all the jets and clean everything. You may need to get a can of carburetor cleaner (and I don't mean the spray stuff) to soak the parts in over night. Just be sure that you don't soak anything made of plastic or rubber. Fork seals aren't expensive and changing them really isn't that difficult. It took me a day and a half to fix the first fork and less than an hour to do the second one. A manual is essential, however. I encourage you to fix things right, especially with regards to the internal engine parts. I would hate to be the new owner of a bike that wasn't repaired properly. Rod [/QUOTE]

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