- Jan 21, 2007
- 109
- 0
mox69 said:I would actually run the rear sprocket up 1 or 2 teeth. You are already dissatisfied with low end power output, it will only get worse if you go down teeth.
mox69 said:I don't know how much $$ you have to spend on this, but if you want to do engine upgrades heres what I would do.
a. Pickup a FMF gnarly pipe and a shorty silencer.
b. Get boyseen or vforce reed setup.
c. Get jd jetting kit.
d. Pickup some VP racing gas
tony91 said:Initial Mods
MX Bonz Airbox fix
13/49 gearing
Rad Valve
Extensive carb tuning
PC pipe and PC Shorty
Straight C-12
Recent Mods
Eric Gorr Overbore (265) and "Mo betta" Porting
RC valve tuning
All steel clutch plates
Flywheel weight
Stock Pipe and PC Full length silencer
13/48 gearing
Future Mods
PWK
FMF Fatty
V-Force
I started with the gearing, pipe and silencer, Rad valve, and straight C-12. With those "bolt-on's" and lots carb tuning, I had a really fun, capable bike to ride.
I got a little bored and was leaning towards a 4T. As a last ditch effort to stay away from the darkside :p , I sent my jug off for the overbore and porting mods. It came back an absolute beast! I couldn't be happier with Eric's work. It's stronger off the bottom with plenty of over rev. I started fooling with the RC valve, got it to where I liked it (11mm). I liked the mid-range better with the stock pipe and felt no bottom or top-end loss versus the PC pipe. I tried the shorty too which seemed to kill the mid-range and over rev. To help with traction and to tame it just a tad, I went with all steal clutch plates and a 9oz FW weight. You will lose some "feel" with all steal plates, but it did help smooth things out a bit. And along with the FW weight, traction is improved.
I need to work on my jetting more. I think I can improve there. I'm looking for a deal on Fatty as Eric recommends it on his overbore jobs. Also, do a search on the PWK carb swap, lots of folks here swear by it. I’m looking for a deal there too.
I had it to do all over again, I would go with Eric's work and the race gas first...then play with the bolt-on's. And I really can't say enough about Eric's mods....no 4T for at least another season... ;)
DieselTech said:- Yes, I see your point about how it will affect low end, but if I do that, then the bike will have more tendency to wheelie than it does already, and 2nd gear won't hold out as long - meaning I'll do more riding in 3rd, correct? I'm not sure which is better, so I guess the only true way is to try it out and see. However, this doesn't really address the low end power/response issue - it just help cover it up by shifting the revs upwards.
changing sprockets will not help ur "wheelie" problem. its caused by poor riding technique. on starts get as close as u can to tank, head over bars. when riding keep head foward even with bars. stand up as much as possible. i can ride wheelies on a 50 if i sit on the back of the seat and wick throttle with out care. work on throttle control and riding style first.
flattie said:changing sprockets will not help ur "wheelie" problem. its caused by poor riding technique. on starts get as close as u can to tank, head over bars. when riding keep head foward even with bars. stand up as much as possible. i can ride wheelies on a 50 if i sit on the back of the seat and wick throttle with out care. work on throttle control and riding style first.
DieselTech said:So, I appreciate your input, but I have to disagree - changing the gearing WILL affect wheelies - if it's geared taller, there's less torque at the rear wheel. Less torque=less tendency to lift the front end. That's why it's easier to do wheelies in 2nd gear as opposed to 5th. 5th is much taller, so less torque at the rear wheel. QUOTE
i undersatnd the mechanical aspect of it. but u will be only making the transition from blah blah blah bottom to hard hit midrange worse. gearing down will help smooth the transition.
also again the ERIC GORR porting is absolutly the best. it will pull harder on bottom and smooth out the "hit".
Gotcha. Not to be redundant but... the proper port job should do that for you. If you don't want to send the cylinder off, go with the Rad valve, a shorty silencer, and get your jetting dialed in. Race gas will make the jetting work easier and you'll be surprised how much throttle response will improve with good gas. The flywheel weight really helped smooth things out too. I got a PWK on the way. I have a ton of TMX jets lying around. I'm gonna get them listed in the For Sale forum at some point. Good luck with it and let us know where you end up.DieselTech said:tony91 - I weigh about 170lbs or so, and my elevation is maybe a few hundred feet above sea level? Keep in mind that I'm not looking for more power - I just want to shift the power down some - I'll give up top end for low end right now - I don't need the top end, as I can't use it at my skill level right now.
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