Kwakasaki said:
My question is how are you going to torque the cylinder nuts.
There is a proper tool for that. I would not use an open-end wrench to torque those nuts because it'll strip the nut flange. MotionPro makes a proper tool:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/torque_wrench_adapter/ If you don't want to spend $17 on this tool, then you can make your own by welding a socket to a 12mm wrench.
Another option is to use the following little trick I discovered when I did my top end: it turned out that the open end of a 12mm box wrench fits perfectly onto a 3/8-to-1/2 ratchet drive converter. So I attached this converter to my torque wrench, and placed the other end of said converter into the open end of 12mm box wrench, while placing ring end of same wrench onto the cyl nut.
Since you'll be extending the effective length of your torque wrench, you
must reduce the wrench torque setting. There are lots of references on the web, and here is one of them:
http://www.norbar.com/torquewrenchextensioncalculator.php
At 20 lbs of torque it started stretching the stud.
That's because 20 ft-lbs is too high! Read your manual: it clearly says 25 N-m which is equivalent to 18 ft-lbs.
Spoke to a mechanic at the local Kaw dealer and he said they tighten the lower four equally and do not check torque and set the upper four at 20 because of the same situation i ran into.
I would find a different mechanic, like someone who pays attention to factory torque specs and also understands the difference between Newton-meters and Foot-pounds.