Do you think these will fit my bike?

Morvo

Member
Oct 31, 2005
205
0
I have a 1995 KX250 and the forks are weaping fluid from both seals. Instead of me ripping them apart and probably buggering the whole lot up I am thinking maybe about bidding on item number 120093890872 on egay. I know they are off a CR model but they are made by Kayaba which is what mine are. I have been quoted £40 to have my new seals I bought put in, but that's before postage etc... so if these forks on egay went for a cheeky sum then I would rather buy these.

Thoughts....

Dan
 
Last edited:

Okiewan

Admin
Dec 31, 1969
29,555
2,237
Texas
Don't quote me on this, but I'd assume you'll have to run the entire front-end to use the different forks, ie.; wheel, rotor, brake, etc., even if the fork tubes are the same size (exactly) and fit the KX clamps. Buying forks instead of replacing seals seems just a tad over the top. :nod:
 

Morvo

Member
Oct 31, 2005
205
0
Fair enough, I will put that idea to rest then. Is it a right bitch to pull forks apart without buying the 'proper' tools beforehand? I would send them away but I really don't think they will be back anytime soon and I hate missing out on rides at the weekend, it helps keep me sane :( :coocoo: It's not like we are doing jumps, woops etc... just general ragging around in a boggy field having fun :)
 

KX250Dad

Member
Dec 4, 2006
204
0
It pains me deeply, Okie is right... same size only says it will fit your clamps. Hub distance, bearing spacers, and brake assembly all need to fit. Being a larger fellow riding a '97KX250 with stock springs I'm pretty familier with weeping seals and replacement... the forks do get a workout. I've had success with plastic shim about the thickness of photo film in removing debris from the seal area... gently rotate and push the film thru the seal working your way around the ID, remove the dust seals first and do them as well. Seal replacement isn't as difficult as you might think... if you don't have a manual download the parts diagram and make notes for reassembly as you go. I'm not sure what your fork oil level number is, may have to make some calls or search the web. Be sure when you assemble the front wheel and axle the forks find center.. their place on the axle where they're not stressed axially (left or right), this happens you leak/weep forever... even with new seals. Fork performance and oil level is important... the difference in riding is dramatic especially in turns.
Good Luck... come to think of it they now make a seal cleaning tool, don't recall the catalog, do know they're available.
 

XRpredator

AssClown SuperPowers
Damn Yankees
Aug 2, 2000
13,510
19
Morvo said:
. . . probably buggering the whole lot up . . . a cheeky sum . . . Fair enough . . . Is it a right bitch to pull forks apart . . . just general ragging around in a boggy field having fun :)
Totally off topic, but I love how the English speak English.

It's the same language, but totally different. And fun to boot!
 

2strokerfun

Member
May 19, 2006
1,500
1
Once you get them repaired, I recommend Seal Savers. Kind of a stretchy boot you slide over the fork seal. Looks a bit funny, but works great. My seals last about 10 times longer now.
 

FruDaddy

Member
Aug 21, 2005
2,854
0
The seals are easier than you may think, I did mine a couple of weeks ago. The only "special" tools that I needed were an impact wrench (the top caps were on there) and a thin profile 19mm wrench (I used a standard wrench and had to shove it through the spring. I found an excellent write-up on another website, but it's bookmarked on my laptop, next time I open it up, I will try to remember to post a link.

EDIT: OK, clicky linky
 
Last edited:

FruDaddy

Member
Aug 21, 2005
2,854
0
It helped me a lot, I condensed it a little, printed it and carried it out to the shop, along with the owners manual for recommended bolt torques and fluid levels.
 
Top Bottom