Hi i'm new to this forum as I just got my bike late last fall. I was lucky enough to get it out in the mountains a few times before the snow started to fall. I love the bike but I think it's due for a top end job as well as some carb tuning as the previous owner has never done it before. I'm planning on doing the top end on my bike using a wiseco piston kit and wrist pin bearing. I was wondering whether or not I should remove the engine from the bike for this job. Also, I will be using cyclepedias online manual as a reference.Is there anything I should look out for that is not in that manual? Any tips and pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Doing the KDX 220 Top End?
- Thread starter tutender
- Start date
read just kdx tech tips about kips shaft so you don't break that. also you may want to check compression to see if it even needs work but then again there is stories of the stock piston cracking. so I would get a topend gasket set and weisco stuff and keep the motor in as this helps with torqing the head I have not done the kdx 200 yet but most 2 strokes you can leave the engine in... and only one 4 stroke out of 6 I've done where I didn't have to remove the engine !!!yeah yamaha!! .
As for the manual your talking about??? i have factory one..good luck
As for the manual your talking about??? i have factory one..good luck
As a follow-up to the few responses against your question:
-Just remove the pipe, radiators, gas tank
-You can then pull the head + cylinder to take care of your business
I did mine about a month ago, using kawa's service manual and information from this website as references. The info here is good, whomever wrote the manual left out a lot of descriptive information/verbiage which I consider necessary. The online material you will find is especially good for cleaning the KIPS valves and subvalves.
If you don't already have one, you'll need a special wrench that fastens to your torque wrench to torque the cylinder nuts back down to specification. The one I purchased is a motion pro brand I believe, seems like I ordered it from dennis kirk.
I got my piston, rings, bearing, and gasket set from rocky mtn atv, they had the best price at the time, I think it set me back $135. Watch the gasket sets, some do not come with all of the gaskets you need - resonator gasket on the side of the cylinder and coolant inlet on the head. I just bought some material and cut my own.
Good luck my friend.
-Just remove the pipe, radiators, gas tank
-You can then pull the head + cylinder to take care of your business
I did mine about a month ago, using kawa's service manual and information from this website as references. The info here is good, whomever wrote the manual left out a lot of descriptive information/verbiage which I consider necessary. The online material you will find is especially good for cleaning the KIPS valves and subvalves.
If you don't already have one, you'll need a special wrench that fastens to your torque wrench to torque the cylinder nuts back down to specification. The one I purchased is a motion pro brand I believe, seems like I ordered it from dennis kirk.
I got my piston, rings, bearing, and gasket set from rocky mtn atv, they had the best price at the time, I think it set me back $135. Watch the gasket sets, some do not come with all of the gaskets you need - resonator gasket on the side of the cylinder and coolant inlet on the head. I just bought some material and cut my own.
Good luck my friend.
theckeler
Member
- Feb 1, 2009
- 144
- 0
Make sure your circlips are seated very very well... I made the mistake of thinking mine where in fine and toasted my cylinder. Buddy suggested using a c-clamp to seat them, not sure exactly what he means but if/when I do mine over again I'll be asking him for more details.
Oh and read about honing your cylinder, which is not necessary use only scotch brite.
Oh and read about honing your cylinder, which is not necessary use only scotch brite.
