Exhaust Valve On A Rm 250

[nmcam12345]

I still have some small problems..with my suzuki 250 year 2001 .bike it never hit's powerband just give's me a blurr blurr sound soo i got to work on small problem ie {exhaust valve} so i turned the left hand side cap with the spring inside 1/4 turn like it says in the namual hopeing my small blurr blurr will be fixed lol nope so i did some home work i asked meany suzuki bike gurus ? and they said the right side there is a rode with a white clip it mite not bee conected ? hehehe bingo !!!!it was wasnt tight soo i fixed it but what way will it be conected ...{ up .or down } .. soo i give it a geuss and conected it up but havent tryd it yet hope it works ... on the over side of the bike there is a cap with the spring in side i just havent turnd it 1/4 turn i just left it . but if i turn it a 1/4 turn the rode on the right side will move DOWN if im right .. thats if i assemble the EXHAUST VALVE CORECTLY ??? HOPE SOME ONE CAN HELP MEE ON THIS PLZ .....

 

[RM_guy]

You can only adjust the spring on the left hand side. The spring on the right hand side is only there to handle any over travel of the actuator rod and isn;t adjustable.

 

[Micahdawg]

The rod should be DOWN. So yes, when you put tension on the left side spring (90 degress) it should cause the rod to push downward for the power valves to be closed. Around 6000 rpm or so that rod will lift, causing the valves to open.

The manual calls for only 90 degrees tension, but I didn't feel as if this was enough tension so I have almost 180 degrees tension. If you go 270 degrees, your power valves will not fully open and will cause a top end bog.

At 90 degrees, the power band will hit more abruptly. At 180 it will be smoother. On my bike, it seems like if I'm cruising at just over 6000 rpm those valves will "flop" open and kinda kill the midrange. Or it could be a jetting issue. I dunno. I'm still sorting out the midrange on my 2001 RM so I've been tinkering.

Micah

 

[nmcam12345]

The rod should be DOWN. So yes, when you put tension on the left side spring (90 degress) it should cause the rod to push downward for the power valves to be closed. Around 6000 rpm or so that rod will lift, causing the valves to open.

The manual calls for only 90 degrees tension, but I didn't feel as if this was enough tension so I have almost 180 degrees tension. If you go 270 degrees, your power valves will not fully open and will cause a top end bog.

At 90 degrees, the power band will hit more abruptly. At 180 it will be smoother. On my bike, it seems like if I'm cruising at just over 6000 rpm those valves will "flop" open and kinda kill the midrange. Or it could be a jetting issue. I dunno. I'm still sorting out the midrange on my 2001 RM so I've been tinkering.

Micah

thanks soo much to all i hope to doo this tomorrow if its the jetts i will ask u more lol hope u dont mind

 

[nmcam12345]

The rod should be DOWN. So yes, when you put tension on the left side spring (90 degress) it should cause the rod to push downward for the power valves to be closed. Around 6000 rpm or so that rod will lift, causing the valves to open.

The manual calls for only 90 degrees tension, but I didn't feel as if this was enough tension so I have almost 180 degrees tension. If you go 270 degrees, your power valves will not fully open and will cause a top end bog.

At 90 degrees, the power band will hit more abruptly. At 180 it will be smoother. On my bike, it seems like if I'm cruising at just over 6000 rpm those valves will "flop" open and kinda kill the midrange. Or it could be a jetting issue. I dunno. I'm still sorting out the midrange on my 2001 RM so I've been tinkering.

Micah

did i doo ur tinkering then like u said ...........I'm still sorting out the midrange on my 2001 RM so I've been tinkering

 

[nmcam12345]

The rod should be DOWN. So yes, when you put tension on the left side spring (90 degress) it should cause the rod to push downward for the power valves to be closed. Around 6000 rpm or so that rod will lift, causing the valves to open.

The manual calls for only 90 degrees tension, but I didn't feel as if this was enough tension so I have almost 180 degrees tension. If you go 270 degrees, your power valves will not fully open and will cause a top end bog.

At 90 degrees, the power band will hit more abruptly. At 180 it will be smoother. On my bike, it seems like if I'm cruising at just over 6000 rpm those valves will "flop" open and kinda kill the midrange. Or it could be a jetting issue. I dunno. I'm still sorting out the midrange on my 2001 RM so I've been tinkering.

Micah

hi m8 i turned it 90 degrees then but it was same soo i did turn it more like 160 but the arm dont move ??? just thinking if the arm is lose at the bottom ? if its lose off the bottom is it a big job ???

 

[Micahdawg]

That rod attaches to a circular mechanism that slides onto the crankshaft. I've never had mine apart, but I did look at it in the manual. You should be able to access it by remove the entire clutch cover (not just the round clutch assess cover). Kinda messy, but not as bad as splitting the case. You can probably even do it with the engine mounted but I'm not positive.

Are you running the bike with that cover off? Just curious how you know the rod isn't moving? That pipe runs right by that cover so it's pretty hard to do any quick checks.

Micah

P.S. If the rod is not moving, it could be due to some seizure in the power valve system. Either carbon/gunk binding the valves or some mechanical problem. I had a bolt loosen up in the power valve system on an old KX and it made the entire system sieze in the closed position (also broke a few parts in the system).

 

[nmcam12345]

well what i did or was told is take ur pipe off then take the cover off to to see if the rode move s when u give the revs ??? but im not sure how high the rev i need to give it .... but i did give some rev to the bike and the over hand will the rode move if its in nutral gear

 

[nmcam12345]

That rod attaches to a circular mechanism that slides onto the crankshaft. I've never had mine apart, but I did look at it in the manual. You should be able to access it by remove the entire clutch cover (not just the round clutch assess cover). Kinda messy, but not as bad as splitting the case. You can probably even do it with the engine mounted but I'm not positive.

Are you running the bike with that cover off? Just curious how you know the rod isn't moving? That pipe runs right by that cover so it's pretty hard to do any quick checks.

Micah

P.S. If the rod is not moving, it could be due to some seizure in the power valve system. Either carbon/gunk binding the valves or some mechanical problem. I had a bolt loosen up in the power valve system on an old KX and it made the entire system sieze in the closed position (also broke a few parts in the system).

hi m8 u still got a rm 250 then if u dont mind can i add u to msn ??? if u can help me plzon my problem

 

[Micahdawg]

You can email me at Micahdogg @ hotmail.com

YOu probably need to rev over half throttle. That rod won't lift until around 6000 rpm and our bikes rev to like 12,000 maybe? And yes, it will move even if you are in neutral.

Micah

 

[nmcam12345]

You can email me at Micahdogg @ hotmail.com

YOu probably need to rev over half throttle. That rod won't lift until around 6000 rpm and our bikes rev to like 12,000 maybe? And yes, it will move even if you are in neutral.

Micah

thanks ... i was fixin bike today soo i did the clutch and basket out to see if the rod was on the gov . yes its was on there with a clip ... but the clutch plates and basket are kinda bad !!!.. but i need new ones .. oh well put it all back and got back to the EXHAUST VALVE left side cap with spring . i put the spring tensoin back to zero ... NO TENSOIN ... then startd to doo it from scratch kicked the bike up 1/4 -1/2 revs nothing so i turned the tensoin spring 1/4 turn with 1/2 revs still nothing soo i was thinking if i doo its self by my finger just a little help not much help though and the rod moved up so i think it was sticking bad ???hmm strange .. then i did 1/2 turn on tension spring to see if it moved up by it self hmm nope sticky still ! WHAT DO I NEED TO MAKE IT NOT STICKY .... :ride:

 

[RM_guy]

... WHAT DO I NEED TO MAKE IT NOT STICKY .... :ride:

You have to remove the valve out of the cylinder and clean it.

 

[nmcam12345]

You have to remove the valve out of the cylinder and clean it.

dam dam i hope u wasnt gona tell me that lol oh well thanks i will let u know how i get on !!! thnak m8 :ride: :yikes:

 

[Micahdawg]

And correct me if I'm wrong RM Guy, but I think the cylinder has to be removed from the bike in order to gain access to the middle valve? Last time I checked I didn't see enough room to access anthing in the main valve cover.

Micah

P.S. And yes, it sounds like a simple "de-gunking" of all the carbon build up. Not costly at all, just tedious and time consuming.

 

[RM_guy]

Yeah you can't access the screws to the cover without removing the cylinder. It's better that the whole thing comes out anyway to give it a real good cleaning. Good time to freshen up the top end!

 

[nmcam12345]

Yeah you can't access the screws to the cover without removing the cylinder. It's better that the whole thing comes out anyway to give it a real good cleaning. Good time to freshen up the top end!

yep sure did take it all off... its in a tub cleaning fluid it was full off carb gunk loads off gunk when i put it all back toagther doo i need to wd40 it before i put it back ?? or doo i just clean it all good and put it all back

 

[quintwatson]

First and foremost, I'd suggest that you clean it up real good. If you want to lube it prior to reassembly, my rule of thumb :cool: has always been to lubricate top end parts with a small amount of your premix oil.

 

[RM_guy]

... lubricate top end parts with a small amount of your premix oil.

:cool: :nod:

 

[nmcam12345]

ok days have gone by
I lube up all parts with small amount off premix oil with a small tiped brush then put all parts back togetheir the tensoin springon the left side is set to (zero.tensoin) and the right side cover is off put exhaust back on kick bike over starts magic ... going back to the tensoin spring on left side i turnd spring till bike gives a ping sound the rod on the right side moves up but .if i give more tensoin on the spring the bike tends to muffl sound and the rod stays down so less= tensoin the bike pings just thinking if ive put too much lube on the parts or will it get better when i ride it high because the rode on the right side dont feel like its got any tensoin there ???

 

[Stroker81]

I have a similar problem on my 98 rm250. When i ride it it is like it has no powerband unless I clutch it a few times then the powerband kicks in and it will run like a raped ape until I get out of it then I have to do it all over again. Powervalve is clean any idea's?

 

[2smokers]

My 96 rm125 has lots of power, but the powerband is real smooth, no real hard hit, are all rm's like this!