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Message: [QUOTE="canyncarvr, post: 539633, member: 16552"] re: 'There's some degree of rotation that will put the float tang in contact with the needle pin, but without actually putting any of the float weight on the pin. This is the point at which the float height is measured. ' To each his own...but I'd have a hard time doing it that way. You end up with a freely moving float, the carb held at a wonky angle whilst you're trying to measure something with a caliper. I hold the carb upside down, bowl flange horizontal. Then place my finner between the float and carb body to raise the float to where the tang just touches the pin. With the carb level, the float held in position it's easier to avoid parallax problems when measuring. re: How can you use these mold lines? ...Of course, if you're just trying to set the floats "parallel" using the mold lines, that's pretty easy to do. Guess I didn't wonder a whole lot at the process. I held the carb as noted, made the mold lines parallel, measured 16mm. While spot on spec wise, the point was to reduce peeing...not so much get to a particular number. I bent the tang such that the mold lines were [b]off[/b] parallel to the tune of 'about' 1mm from the center of the float to the edge. Re-set the floats to again 'just' touch the tang to verify the 1mm slope. Done. re: Sadly, I've repaired too many bikes where the owners seemed to be doing just that! Well, sure! Fits with the 'moh tight is moh better' idea (as applied to fasteners). Had no intention of impugning your methods. You get an idea of who knows what after awhile 'round here. You do. Great! I [b]have[/b] spent a fair amount of time trying to resolve somone's carb problems before......only to find that the AIR screw being referred to was black in color and plastic in nature. oops. [/QUOTE]

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