Fork Oil change

I have never seen a drain screw at the bottom of a fork. Typically, you pull the front end apart, open the fork up enough to remove the spring, dump it out and pump the push rod many times to get it all, compress the fork completely, fill the fork to the top, pump the push rod a bunch more to fill the air pockets and cartridge (if there is one). If it is an inverted fork you need to make su that you get oil between the tubes as well. Set the level with the spring removed and the fork compressed, then put it all back together.

There is no drain screw on your forks. You have right-side-up cartridge-style forks on your '98. To change fork oil you have to remove forks from the triple clamps, unscrew the top, and go from there. Search this forum, and you'll find lots of details. I don't have my manual in front of me, so from memory the oil level should be 95-100mm from the top.

I really think you are wasting your time and money by delaying the inevitable purchase of heavier springs, but that's just my humble opinion. If you plan to keep the stock forks, then heavier springs and compression stack shim mod are the way to go. Another alternative is a complete KX fork swap. Again, there are already lots of threads on this forum about that subject too.

Congrats on your new bike, and best of luck to you!

Yes, go ahead and get some stiffer fork springs. Check the spring rate calculator at the www.mx-tech.com site. It should be .42 or .44, I think. It will take more than too heavy fork oil to make the forks well for you, especially on some faster course out in the open areas.

Good luck!