fmfkdxrider

Member
Aug 24, 2002
10
0
i was just wondering what kind of fork weight springs should i get for my bike.I weigh 180 lbs and am 5'8 inches. it says on fredettes website .38 kg but the fredette race fork spring doesent make a .38 for my bike ( I have a 2002) what other weight would work that the fredette race spring makes??? thanks
 

fatty_k

~SPONSOR~
Jul 3, 2001
1,274
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Those Fredette springs will work as long as your KDX is newer than 95. All KDX's made after 95 are exactly the same, besides color. I am about the same weight as you (with gear) and I got the FRP .40 springs. They are not listed on his site, but I ordered .39's and ended up with .40's. Make sure you have your rear sag set at 100mm or so. I didnt feel the full potential of the heavier springs until I set my sag.
 

Dazza

Member
Jan 1, 2002
122
0
Those Fredette springs will work as long as your KDX is newer than 95
Fatty why won't they work on 89-92 front forks.These are still 43mm units.
I am sure they will work.The XR400 springs work for the 43mm forks.89-92 and 95 on.
(Which I must say are better)
I do know USD forks are 41mm units which cases the springs will not work.
 

fatty_k

~SPONSOR~
Jul 3, 2001
1,274
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I think the internals of the 89-94's are different and require different springs. Check with FRP, I think he makes springs for 89-94 and 95+ models.

Nevada Sixx, it is 100mm from when the bike is up on the stand (no weight on the wheels) to me sitting on the bike; is 100mm of sag. Here is an article I found helpful. http://www.motocross.com/garage/setracesag.html
 

KdxChode

Member
Jun 18, 2001
327
0
After almost two seasons of riding I finally adjusted my sag. I'm 185 dry and replaced my front springs right when I got the bike. i couldn't believe the difference it makes. My bike can handle the whoops way better now. I used to have probs with the back kicking around in them but it tracks nice and straight now. The front caused some probs though, even with the heavier springs I bottomed it really good a few times almost causing me to wreck. Before i adjusted the rear i couldn't go fast enough to really worry about the front bottoming hard in the whoops. I haven't got to try it on the trail yet where I do about 95% of my riding.

Don't put off the sag adjustement like I did. It is one of the biggest improvements I've made so far and cost about ten minutes and zero$$.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
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".. it is 100mm from when the bike is up on the stand (no weight on the wheels) to me sitting on the bike; is 100mm of sag"

Make SURE your initial measurement is with NO LOAD on the suspension. It has to be 'topped out' to make the initial measurement. It doesn't have to be on a stand to do that. That's a bit of a problem measurement-wise 'cuz you can't be measuring to the ground if the wheel is at all OFF the ground.

Settle for lifting the rear fender til you feel it top out...THEN measure to some other fixed ref point...like the axle. Measure at 90º to the fixed point! Helps to make a bit of a mark on the fender where you measure to. You'll need to be measuring to the same point when you're sitting on it.

Obviously, this is done correctly with a couple of people. Hard to measure when you're sitting on it. You can use a couple of bike straps to hold the bike upright so you can sit on it with no toes down. Sit up in the saddle where you should be. The difference between the two measurements is your race sag.

Using the same measurement process, check how much the bike drops with its OWN weight. That's FREE sag. Should be between 1/2 to 1". If it's less than 1/2", you have too light a shock spring. If it's MORE than 1", you have too stiff a shock spring.

You must set race sag FIRST..then check free sag.

At 180#, the oem 5.0kg/mm shock spring should be just fine.

"Don't put off the sag adjustment"

Amen!! It's free. It's imperative. It can change the handling of your bike every bit as much as a $700 suspension job. Kinda like greasing your suspension.....you just GOTTA do it!!!

imo..............;)
 

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